American Voyager Association Tech Center- Voyager XII Tech Tips

Rear Tire Change
By Mike Rallis

1. Put bike on center stand.
2. Disconnect wiring connectors then remove saddlebags.
3. Remove two bolts for the exhaust for each side. Bolts are under the rear floorboards and aft.
4. Loosen the bolts to the exhaust just forward of the crossover tube for the mufflers. One on each side.
5. Remove two bolts from rear crash bars that hold the attachment for the saddlebag mounts.
6. Remove three bolts on each side of the rear fender flange.
7. Remove the rear fender flange. Disconnect the two wires at the top under the trunk. This disconnects the license plate light.
8. Lower the exhaust pipes just enough to clear the axle bolt.
9. If you have a Markland trailer hitch, remove it. This will help with the tire removal.
10. Remove the axle cotter pin and nut.
11. Remove the axle and the brake bolt on the swing arm.
12. Remove the rear brake housing and make sure that the housing isn't hanging by the brake line.
13. Pull the wheel off the hub towards the right side about two inches. Be sure that you have a firm grip on the wheel, otherwise something like hands and/or fingers can get pinched.
14. Pull the wheel out the back end of the bike.

To re-install the new tire and wheel:

15. Coat the shaft splines with light grease and reattach the wheel back on the hub.
16. Reverse the order above to reinstall.
17. Tighten the rear axle nut to 80 ft/lbs. of torque and the brake caliper bolt to 72 ft/lbs.

Your ready to ride!!

Sticking or Dragging Brakes
(Will work for Front or Rear Brakes)
By Gary Schill

Problem: You are noticing that your brakes, either front or rear, are starting to drag and/or what could be called moaning. It could also be felt as a minor but noticeable vibration while the moaning is taking place. It may or may not emit a squeal, which more likely may be a out-of-service limit brake pad, but if your brake pads are within service limits and you still hear a squeal or one of the before mentioned symptoms, or you feel your pads are prematurely wearing out, then read on.
Solution: The problem may be either a sticking caliper piston, or dry caliper holder shafts and holder holes. Refer to the diagram below (although it shows the rear brake set-up, this will work for both front and rear brake).

More than likely, the problem will be dry caliper holder shafts and holder holes. The caliper holder shafts should slide back and forth fairly freely in the holder holes, however sometimes these parts which should be operating in grease, tend to dry out after while and should be checked at least whenever the brake pads are replaced. First, clean these shafts and shaft holes using isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol, or even disc brake fluid. Do not use gasoline, motor oil, or any other petroleum distillate, as this will cause deterioration of the rubber parts. When lubricating these shafts, Kawasaki recommends using a Poly Butyl Cuprysil grease (PBC is a special high temperature, water resistant grease). I have used heatproof plumber's grease which is supposed to be a high temperature silicone base grease, which has worked well for me so far. After cleaning and greasing the caliper holder shafts and holder holes, reassemble the brakes and try them out.
If you notice that your hydraulic brake fluid is the color of root beer or something similar (should be mostly clear to very slightly amber) and it has been this way for some time, your caliper piston MAY be sticking, change and flush your hydraulic fluids (you should do this at least every two years, brake and clutch). If you still experience sticking brakes, then you may need to examine and clean the caliper piston and probably replace the caliper piston seal and dust cover, also check the master cylinders as these could also be possibly sticking due to excess moisture in the brake fluid (that's what turns the fluid the root beer color).

Voyager XII Air Filter Alternative
By Bill Bunn

A STP SA3915 replacement air filter will fit perfectly into the Voyager OEM white plastic basket by trimming approximately 1/8" off two opposite ends with a razor cutter. Apply silicon or other sealant in the bottom of the basket and place the wire side of the new filter down into the sealant. Don't forget to the reinstall white plastic ladder looking holders. The cost at our local Advanced Auto Parts was under $5. A NAPA 6140 or WIX 46140 will also fit with appropriate trimming.

TIRE SAFETY

To get the maximum safe use out of your tires and maximum touring enjoyment you should:

Properly maintain all aspects of your vehicle in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. Read and reread your motorcycle owner's manual.
Never exceed the loading and accessories restrictions found in your motorcycle owner's manual, or the maximum load displayed on the tire sidewalls. Know your loaded vehicle weight!
Check air pressure at frequent, regular intervals, particularly just before and during long trips. Always use an accurate tire gauge* and check pressures only when the tires are cold (i.e., wait one hour after running). We have found many cheap gauges to be off more than 5 psi, so be sure to use a top quality gauge and preferably one that retains the pressure reading until reset!
Inspect your tires as often as possible. Look for irregular wear, any signs of cracking in the sidewalls and tread, blisters, knots, cuts or punctures. Immediately remove and replace damaged tires.

If in doubt, ask your motorcycle tire dealer to check your loading, inflation and tires. Remember, your tires stand between you and a serious accident.

For touring motorcycle loading, follow these general guidelines:
A. Light loads-single rider with some luggage (up to 200 lb. total)-minimum tire pressure of 32 psi front and 36 psi rear must be maintained.
B. Heavier loads-dual riding and/or luggage (from 200 lb. total up to maximum motorcycle capacity stated in the owner's manual)-pressure of 36 psi front and 40 psi rear must be maintained.

Please Note: For any dual riding or fully loaded use, 40 psi must be maintained in all Dunlop rear tires fitted to touring motorcycles. In addition to following these recommendations, notice what your tires are telling you while you're riding. If your steering response is slow or mushy, or if cornering and braking response is heavy, there's a good chance your tires are under-inflated. Vibration or wobble may signal that actual tire damage has occurred and failure is imminent!

Reprinted with permission from DunlopTires.com

Installing Rivco Air Horns
By Rick Jarosch

I ordered the Rivco Air Horns to "Be Safe and to Be Heard." The box includes Triple Chrome Plated Air Horns, mounting hardware, hoses, relay, fuse and very good picture instructions. It took about one hour to install.

1. Remove right side lower fairing. Remove 2 bolts holding in stock horn.

2. Disconnect 2 wires from stock horn and attach them to relay. The air compressor draws too many amps, and would short out the horn thumb switch. Run power to relay from battery with the included wire and fuse, and attach a ground to other terminal of relay.

3. Attach mounting bar using 2 old horn bolts.

4. Use screw clamp, mount air compressor to frame. Keep hoses and wires away from exhaust.

5. Put right lower fairing cover back on bike. Use a little water or saliva, and connect air hoses.

6. Screw in single mounting bolt. Use thread adhesive to prevent movement.

7. Attach cover with philip's screw.

Test horn. At 128-decibels, it is about 4 times louder then the stock horn.

If the wife complains: Are you spending money on that thing again? You won't be lying this time when you say "But honey, its for safety"!

Minor gripe: the installed Air Horn was noticeably pointed to the right of the bike. I disassembled everything up to step 4 above. I used 2 18" pipe wrenches and moved the mounting bar forward about 1 inch. After reinstalling everything, the Air Horn now faced straight ahead.

Here is Rivco's web address:

https://www.rivcoproducts.com/

How to Use the Voyager XII Center Stand
By Gary Schill

Here seems to be a hot topic, especially among Voyager XII owners that bought their bike used and it came without an owners manual. The Voyager XII center stand is among the easiest center stands to hoist the bike up onto- if you know how to do it, and that is not hard. There are several suggestions that I've seen given on how best to use this stand, from facing the back of the bike and lifting with the left foot, to putting a board under the rear tire and then trying, and a few others. However, most of these appear to be procedures to overcome a problem that otherwise should not exist. So, before going any further, I would like to suggest things to do or check that will make using the center stand easy and effortless.

Make sure you have the rear suspension air pressure within a reasonable or recommended range, most times between 35lbs. for solo riders, and about 40 lbs. for two up using the stock Voyager rear shocks. Your front suspension should also be within service limits for pressure, about 5-15 for stock (although at the upper range of this, your front fork springs are more than likely sacked out and need replaced- use Progressive Springs), if you have Progressive's, 0 to 10 lbs. should do it. With pressures below these settings, your bike will set lower and make using the center stand more difficult than it should be.
Tire air pressure within recommended range. Dunlop recommends 36lbs. front and 40 lbs. rear for most of their touring tires.
Your center stand is not missing any parts or broken. This may sound a little odd to mention, but especially when buying a used Voyager, some of the parts, especially the 1st stage lever, may be missing because of improper use of the center stand by someone, which led to 1st stage lever breakage, and it was never repaired or replaced.
Choose a LEVEL or SLIGHTLY uphill area with a fairly hard surface ( cement, blacktop, etc.) in which to hoist your Voyager up onto the center stand. Downhill attempts will be difficult if not almost impossible, you may also put excessive pressure on the 1st stage lever, possibly breaking it (that's why some used Voyagers are missing this lever), and your bike will have a tendency to fall forward off the center stand. If the bike sits on too much of an uphill grade, you'll have a very difficult time getting it off.
Make sure your transmission is in neutral.

Here we go:

1. This is what your center stand should look like peeking out from under your stock mufflers on the left hand (as sitting on the bike) side of your Voyager. The tubular "pipe" is the 1st stage part of the center stand (red arrow pointing to it), if this part is missing, you should make arrangements to get the broken part re-welded on if you have it, or fabricate one to take it's place. The larger part with the foot pad on it, is the 2nd and main stage of the center stand.

2. With the machine on level or very slightly uphill surface, hold the bike upright while standing on the left side, front wheel pointed straight ahead. Have your left hand on the left handlebar grip and your right hand on the rear passenger chromed grab handle. Put your right foot on the 1st stage lever and gently lower into position until the center stand "feet" are resting on the surface and the bike feels "centered" on them. You may have to pull the bike slightly rearward while doing this, and you want both center stand feet on the surface and fully forward.

3. Now place your right foot on the 2nd and main stage of the center stand (the one with the larger foot pad on it), and just use a moderate down pressure on it. If you are doing this on level or slight uphill surface- hard surface, (it can be done in gravel, but will need to be more delicately done), the bike should fairly easily pop right up on the center stand. If not, review the steps here and make sure your stand is mechanically and physically sound. With very little practice, you should be a pro in no time!

Voyager XII Oil Drain Plugs Locations
By Gary Schill

Most motorcycles when draining the oil, you remove one drain plug and possibly remove the oil filter to remove most of the oil from the engine and transmission. However, with the Voyager XII, things are just a little more complicated. With the Voyager XII, you need to remove TWO drain plugs (17mm bolts) and the oil filter (which also has a 17mm bolt in the middle of it to remove) to completely drain the oil. As usual with any engine, it is best to warm the engine first to facilitate easier and more complete draining. Have the engine warm, not hot, and make sure the exhaust pipes are not hot when draining the oil so to lessen the chance of burning yourself in case you come in contact with the exhaust pipes or spill some oil on you when you first remove the drain plugs. If you do not remove both drain plugs and the oil filter, you will not have all the old oil out. See picture below that was submitted by Fritz previously on the AVA message forum for location of both drain plugs and the oil filter cover. Fritz is pointing to the second drain plug that is missed by many unfamiliar with this Voyager peculiarity. Do not remove any non-17mm bolts as they are for other things, the bolt next to the 2nd oil drain bolt for example is for engine oil to pass through. The bolt barely visible in the upper right hand corner is one of the engine coolant drain bolts.

Oil Drain Bolts and Oil Filter Cover locations

Radiator Grille Dress-Up
By "Wild Bill" Chandley

I discovered some anodized aluminum mesh grille material in the J.C. Whitney catalog for $19.99. It's available in Red, Blue, Black, and Silver... and comes in either a Small or Large diamond pattern. It's intended for automotive use, like a decorative insert behind the grille opening of a car or truck... but I noticed the size was large enough to fit the radiator grille of my Voyager XII (with substantial material left over) and figured it might be suitable for use as a decorative covering.

So I ordered some in Silver, and it arrived yesterday. I wasted no time in fabricating my new radiator mesh grille as follows:

(1) I began by installing some plastic chrome edging around the black-painted perimeter of the OEM grille. After cutting a piece of the new mesh to the size of the OEM grille, I realized I'd have to take off the edging again (in order to fit the outer lip of the new mesh under it) and reinstall it. That's what prompted me to use the wire ties --- because the adhesive inside the chrome edging is only intended for a single use, and I was afraid it wouldn't stay put. I gave some thought to putting more (new) chrome edging on, but since the wire ties are hidden by the outer radiator cowling anyway, I'll probably just leave them as is.

(2) I'd previously installed the same plastic chrome edging on the inner lip of my radiator cowling (rear view).
(4) Here's the radiator grille (with new mesh installed) just sitting in the opening of the cowling (not centered vertically).

Anyway... I think it turned out pretty well as a $20 alternative to having the OEM grille chrome-plated. (Now I'm gonna see what I can do with fabricating some mesh inserts for my side cowlings out of the same material).

P.S. - If I do any more of these, I'll definitely cut out the mesh grille BEFORE putting on the plastic chrome edging. Also, the diamond openings in the new mesh are smaller than the OEM openings... there was a Large Diamond mesh listed by J.C. Whitney, but since no measurements were given, I was afraid the openings might be too big. (Actually, the small openings may work out better, as far as keeping bugs and debris out of the radiator...).

Final Drive Vent Location
By Fritz Wells (The Masked Rider)

Voyager XII Final Drive Voyager XII's mostly came stock with a vent hole in the final drive, later, some thought it was better to plug this hole to curb oil leakage from this area. However, it was later found that higher than normal (anything above ¼" below final drive fill hole) contributed to most if not all the oil leakage, and plugging the final drive vent hole actually could increase oil leakage because of pressure build up as final drive oil heated up and forcing oil past the seals, therefore, it was recommended to re-open the hole if previously plugged. Here is a picture of final drive vent location. 1/16th inch hole is good. Just enough to vent the drive. Make sure you cover up the gear to keep metal chips out. I used a shop vac and hold it next to the drill bit while drilling. Sucks up all the metal bits.

For instructions to re-open this final drive vent hole, see below:

Drilling a final drive vent hole:

After you remove the rear wheel, cover the final drive gear with a rag so you don't get chips of metal on it. Myself, I use masking tape to tape a rage to the final drive face to make SURE no chip get on the gear. A little note... look at the amount of grease on the gear. Don't use anymore than that amount. I've seen too many mechanics putting WAY TOO much grease on that gear. It doesn't take much grease to work. If you use too much grease, when the final drive builds up heat, this grease will turn to an oil and will be thrown outward against the inside of the hub and leak out onto the wheel and tire. Oil on tires are not a lot of fun. :O)

Use a 1/16th drill bit. measure back from the tip of the drill bit about 3/16th to 1/4 inch and wrap a piece of electrical tape around that point. This is to give you a guide as to how far to drill into the final drive case. Its just so you don't drill through the out side of the case. The bit will go in more than that but its a good reminder to not drill too far.

NOTE: I use a shop vac and hold the hose up to the drill bit while I'm drilling. Most of the time it will suck up all the chips and none will even fall on the rag. No matal chips should go into the final drive case because it the nature of the drill bit to pull metal out away from the hole. You can use a small piece of wire to poke in the hole to make sure it was drilled all the way through. Even in the worst case scenario that a small chip would get into the final drive, it would only get eaten up in the gears. You should have no problems as long as you pay attention.

Alternator Rubber Dampener Location and Inspection
By Fritz Wells (The Masked Rider)

Here are some pictures showing the rubber dampeners that help keep the Alt noise down. These rubber dampeners should be med soft rubber. If they are hard like plastic, they should be replaced. Noise coming from the Alt. area does not always mean the Alt is the problem. Hard dampeners can make a lot of noise.

View of where the alternator is mounted on a Voyager XII. Removing or installing a rebuilt alternator is not a hard job, they are fairly easy to get at and are straight forward in removal and installation. Note that the stock alternators are 35 amp output and the only parts available from a dealer is the alternator brushes. If your alternator is unable to be rebuilt for some reason, check out the alternatives on the AVA's Dollar4Dollar page.

Where dampeners go on VXII Engine

Carburetor Drain Screw and Idle Jet Adjustment Locations
By Fritz Wells (The Masked Rider)

Carb drain, and Idle Jet locations
Here is another excellent picture from Fritz. It shows the locations for the carb drain screws (to drain carburetor float bowls- Voyager XII), and where the idle jet adjustment screws are. It must be noted that the idle jet adjustment screws are hidden by soft plugs to prevent unauthorized adjustments from factory settings to satisfy pollution requirements.

Fuel Pump Point Access
Pics By Fritz Wells (The Masked Rider)
Text by Gary Schill

When you might think that your fuel pump has bought the farm, it is probably a 90% chance that the only problem is just dirty or pitted fuel pump points. When the points don't make good contact, the pump doesn't work, and your bike will not start or may not run properly if it does. The Voyager fuel pumps (Voyager XII's), use a point system which may become corroded, much the same way distributor points used to do on cars. If the points become corroded, or do not make good contact, they will need cleaned. Kawasaki has tried to solve the problem of corroded points by sealing the points on 1990 and later model bikes. If your bike is pre-1990, it will be easier to service the pump, as they are not sealed. This article will show you how to get to the points if it is 1990 or later, but the location and construction of the pumps are the same. Although some have adapted other type fuel pumps to the Voyager, it must be noted that the Voyager pumps are a four wire pump and not the two wire pump as some are. The OEM Voyager pump has some safety features on it that will only work when all four wires are used. Two wire pumps can be used for emergency or even more long term use, but they will not have some of the safety features that the OEM will.
So, you feel your pump isn't working. Look at the following pictures to see how to disassemble the pump and general features and locations of the pump and connections.

Fuel pump on top with fuel filter below it. Although Fritz had intended this to be one of the final steps to pump point cleaning, to show the routing, I used it here to show what the pump actually looks like along with the fuel filter which is mounted below it. To find the pump, one must look on the right side of the bike, just above and behind the rear wheel brake fluid reservoir. After you complete the point cleaning or reconditioning, refer back to this picture for routing of the hoses from the fuel tank and to the carburetors.

As noted in the yellow box on the diagram to the right, this shows where the screw is located that holds the pump cover onto the pump. This screw may be more easily seen in pumps that came as original equipment on Voyager XII's from 1986 to 1989, but after that were sealed. Use this diagram to plot where to drill a very shallow hole to access this screw (the only one holding the pump cover on). Only drill just through the plastic cover as the screw is directly below it.

With the fuel pump removed from the motorcycle and placed in a vise, use the diagram above to mark where to drill a shallow hole to access the fuel pump cover mounting screw. That location is shown in white here. This is where you will drill a shallow hole or otherwise remove a little plastic from the fuel pump cover to access the pump cover mounting screw.

After you have the cover reinstalled and the cover mounting screw tightened up, cover the hole you made to expose the cover mounting screw with metal tape to reseal it. Remount the fuel pump and filter assembly back on the bike being careful to properly hook up the hoses as shown in the first picture of this article (noted as #6). If it has been some time since you replaced your fuel filter, now would be a good time to do that since your right there. There are a few alternative fuel filters for the Voyager XII's listed on the Dollar4Dollar (new window) page if you don't want to use or cannot get an OEM fuel filter. After all is back together, enjoy the ride!

Brake Sponginess
As related to Mike McGee from Kawasaki Technical Rep. Brian Fugate

Before I left on a trip from Florida, I topped off the rear brake master cylinder. Then I forgot to put the cap back on for a whole day (South Florida humidity). Knowing it was contaminated by moisture, I pumped out the whole system, and refilled with DOT 4. When I pumped and bled the brake system to get out the air, I could not get any pedal pressure. I bled the brakes 20 times. No pedal. I rode to Americade with no usable rear brake and didn't have time to go to a dealer to have it checked. When I stopped second night in Pennsylvania, I bled it 30 more times. No help. When I got up to Americade, I spoke to Kawasaki's Technical Representative, Brian Fugate. He took the time to listen to the problem and the story. We opened the rear master cylinder reservoir cap and tried it a few times. No luck. Finally, after much thought, he told me to hold the pedal down, left the nipple open and did this: He grabbed both sides of the rear brake caliper and squeezed them together. Out popped a large bubble of air that was trapped in the caliper. He closed it and on the next pump and bleed, the rear pedal was hard as a rock. I had read the owner's and service manual. No mention was made of this. I never heard anyone ever talk of this before. It was a revelation. If you have the same problem, try this technique.

The channel display on the CB controller no longer works correctly, and the unit may quit transmitting. There is a click when the push-to-talk button is depressed but the TX does not light up. It does receive however and change channels but with no display, it is not possible to know what channel the unit is on. The back lighting on the unit also works.

This problem is more common than you might think. One method of correction that works for many, is to disconnect the hot lead on the battery for about a minute, then reconnect it. This will reset the controllers and most likely will fix your problem. If that doesn't work, you may then want to check the connections on the back of the CB display for any loose, disconnected, or corroded connections.