American Voyager Association

Cleaned out the fins with air line. Fins look good. Lets see what happens now.

Still over heats but it cools down faster. Last friday coming home from work I shifted into 2nd gear and the clutch cable broke. Called the local Kaw dealer and they said they no longer make that part. sigh...

Try "motionpro.com" for cable.
I'll do more checking on the heat problem.

The temperature spike and them cooling down makes me wonder if it's the thermostat. I know it's a pain, but it you remove it and place it in a pot of water on the stove with a candy or other thermometer, you will be able to actually see it start to open. I checked mine and if I remember correctly, it started to open at something like 175-180 and was fully open by 190-195.

This is the latest reply.Still not a lot of $ but its time consuming
I originally thought that.But if I have a lack of flow (thermostat or water pump) it wouldn't cool down once it got hot??
It would make sense if you consider ,low speed = not enough flow and high speed = working to hard.
Speeds in between could be enough air flow to keep it from over heating?
I'm also assuming you have confirmed the fan is turning on before you overheat.
It is my understanding that you may as well plan on making it a day it.Could take 8 to 10 hrs to take it down ,check/fix it and put it back together.

NOTE on the cable-- Some places can make you a cable if you take the broken one in so they know what is needed

I had a 1987 1300 a few years back. It over heated very often. I tried wings to bring in surrounding air, checked the thermostat, and removed the plastic radiator shield and replaced it with a fine wire to keep out bugs. I took the radiator off and was able to get to the water pump. There is a clip that holds the pump on the shaft. The clip had deteriorated and no longer kept the pump aligned on the shaft. The result was a spinning shaft but the pump did not. I cleaned up the shaft and replaced the clip. That took care of the problem of over heating.

I had a 1987 1300 a few years back.
I remember it well.

You wouldn't happen to remember how long it took and how much work was involved with getting to the pump?

OK,
I have had a number of responses to my inquiries and I believe Sir old dirt is correct.
If the impeller is worn or the clip is damaged ,you probably have flow ,just insufficient to keep the bike cool.
So now we are back to taking the radiator off and checking the pump.From descriptions I've been given you should be able to check the impeller once you get the thermostat out.

You don't have to remove the thermostat to get to the pump, but you do have to drain and remove the radiator. The thermostat is in the upper section just below the upper radiator hose, and the pump is behind the cover right above the lower radiator hose. There is a tube between them that has a c-clip you move from the slot and slide the tube down into the lower section.

Part 1

I just did the cooling system job you are thinking of doing for similar reasons – I had an overheating problem. I got the 85 ZN1300 Nov 2010 with 22,700 miles on it and have gone through every thing, as there was no service history with the bike. The worst my overheating problem ever did was light the Alert light and dump some antifreeze into the overflow tank but not enough to make the overflow dump any antifreeze on the ground.

From what I have figured out the bike runs hot, this has been told to me by numerous people. We think over heating is watching the temperature gauge peak and then you get the temperature alert light flashing. As related to me – if the bike cools down enough to kill the alert light when your under way your not that bad off.

Our cars mostly run 1/3 up the temperature gauge and if they go higher we know there is a problem. It seem this bike runs near ¾ up the gauge and often peaks when waiting at a light but my bike cools down 2 to 3 bars from the peak when I’m riding after I have done the following to the cooling system.

I found the following problems on my bike when I serviced the cooling system.

Radiator cap (I have 2 OEM radiator caps both not holding pressure #1 would hold about 10 psi and #2 just vented – both of them had the upper rubber gasket showing cracks) Go to an auto parts store and ask to use their pressure tester to check the cap – better yet replace it anyway.

Thermostat gasket was soft/mushy.

Thermostat (probably the original & not fully opening)

What ever the previous owner put in the radiator tested out to over 60 degrees below 0 on my tester so the % of antifreeze was way above the recommended 43% from Kawasaki or the 50% I used in my bike. I’m in Chicago and wanted to make sure the bike could sit out the winter in the garage and not freeze to the point of cracking the block.

Nothing else but a lot of bugs in the radiator.

Lot’s of suggestions to make this easier.

I wouldn’t suggest doing the job unless you have access to the 2 manuals for the bike for the reference pictures and torque specifications.

KZ1300 & ZN1300 manuals.

Another helpful hint is to take some pictures as you tear down so you have a reference for the refit.

Another suggestion is to get the parts you will need in advance as this will make it a lot easier on you and you can do the job in morning and part of an afternoon. Much better than breaking it down and waiting a week or two getting the parts and then trying to figure out where everything went and in what order

Part 2

Here is the parts list - many can still be gotten from a Kawasaki Dealer like I did and also I did have to source some of the items off eBay.

Get the following:

Antifreeze that specifically says it protects Aluminum engines and radiators.

I used: Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant mixed with distilled water.

Another item don’t think of using anything but distilled water.

Option here would be to use a premix. You will need almost 1 gallon to fill the system completely

Owners manual say 43% - I live south of you in Chicago and went with a 50% solution.

Radiator hose - Armormark or Gates #21752 will make both your upper and lower hoses by cutting to size.

670B1508 "O" RING, 8MM 2 $1.57
This is the one they are talking about on the water pump shaft and the 2nd one is used on the water pump drain plug.

92033-1024 CIRCLIP, 11MM, IMPELER 1 $2.67
If you need to do anything with the water pump impeller.

49063-1001 SEAL, MECHANICAL 1 $43.80
You may also need the water pump packing (I didn’t)

670B2016 "0" RING, 16MM 2 $1.57

92055-1032 "0" RING, 67MM 1 $5.81

92055-1033 "0" RING, 0R2037 1
sourced from eBay NLA Kawasaki you may not need this one but you should change any “O” ring where you split a housing.

480J2000 CIRCLIP, 20MM 1 $1.66

49054-1001 THERMOSTAT 1 $26.58

11009-1087 GASKET, THERMOSTAT CAP 1 $2.93

92081-1104 SPRING, THERMOSTAT 1 $7.25

11009-1100 GASKET, HOSE FITTING 1 $2.83
not really needed unless yours is going bad this is the gasket for the goose neck (top of cylinder head to upper radiator hose). Sourced from eBay NLA from Kawasaki or make yours from gasket material, or possible spend all day at a friendly auto parts store going through gaskets to find one that will work. In my case the gasket was good / not leaking or swelling so I didn’t touch this item when I did my cooling system

13lbs* Stant lever release radiator cap picked up mine at Walmart for about $5.99
*OEM cap was 13lbs

If you want to make life real easy pick up the following bolts – the ones on my bike were corroded and hard to get out because of water seepage/leakage which rusted them – easier again to change out once you ease the old ones out.

120Z0616 BOLT-SOCKET 2 $2.29

120Z0620 BOLT-SOCKET 2 $2.35

120Z0625 BOLT-SOCKET 2 $2.53

130X0625 BOLT-FLANGED 2 $2.47

One possible other item you might need is the bypass tube

32032-1184 PIPE, WATER BYPASS 1
it is no NLA from Kawasaki but you can get one from:

http://www.zed-parts.com/Z1300_parts_shop.html

for about 30 British pounds or about $45.65 + shipping.

ZP-32032-1184-uk
WATER BYPASS PIPE
HIGH QUALITY MACHINED
FROM 6061-T6 ALLY

Part 3

I have noticed the bike is real sensitive to road condition and traffic conditions – riding behind a truck will elevate the temperature of the bike by at least 1 bar. Cruising at 90 will raise to temperature to 2 remaining bars.

Riding at about 60 will give me 4 bars to the upper level.

It’s actually interesting watching all the stuff that affects the temperature.

Finally the service brought the temperature gauge down and once in a while it actually run ½ way up the gauge but more often than not it runs ¾ the way up.

Part 4

All the prices I have quoted are approx. or what I paid.

Some of these parts may be considered as over kill but if you have ever had to take something like this apart a 2nd time because you tried to save money on a $4 or $5 dollar part you will understand.

Remove the gas tank so you have some clearance.

Remove the lower legs of the faring.

Remove the right side fairing brace (3) bolts – 1 underneath the faring 2 on the frame.

Remove the air horn cover to make it a little easier to get to some of the lower hose clamp bolts.

Drain the radiator. No matter what you do the antifreeze will splash so have a hose to wash off the spilled antifreeze off the paintwork and the floor.

Good time to disconnect the fan wiring and pull the single wire off the goose neck temperature sensor. Both are on the right side. Remember to reconnect them later.

While you are working here you will see a rubber gasket like material surrounding the frame down tubes – this is held on by 4 screws on each side. Pulling the rubber and the steel hold downs now will make taking the radiator off later a lot easier. Note how the rubber pieces are fitted and how the steel hold downs were placed.

You will find 2 bolts on the bottom of the chrome radiator guard holding the chrome radiator guard in place. 2 rubber bushings hold the upper side. Once the lower bolts are off the guard should pull forward.

Look on each side of the radiator and you will see 3 screws or bolts on each side –these hold the radiator screen in place (black plastic guard). Notice several are slightly shorter so remember where they came from

Loosen the radiator clamps top and bottom – all my clamps were oriented so I could loosen them from the right side of the bike.

Once the clamps are good and loose you now need to loosen 3 bolts holding the radiator to the frame – 1 at the top and 2 at the bottom.

Now the hard part you need to work the old radiator hoses off – take your time so you don’t crack the aluminum radiator. Possibly you can slice the old hoses with a long knife but be careful. While you are doing this you will also disconnect the overflow line near the radiator filler hole.

You now need to refer to the manuals to see how to remove the bypass pipe, the thermostat housing and the water pump housing. Get some pictures of the parts and how they are fitted & where they are. I grab a lot of pictures from the following:

http://www.cyclepartsnation.com

Figure out how to look up your bike and you can grab the pictures from their website.

Or go to:

http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.as ... EHTABS%3d1

This will show you every part for the bike and will also let you see what Kawasaki still has for the bike.

Some of the 6mm Allen screws are a real tight fit as far as working clearances go, so you are going to have to fiddle with them to get them off and back on.

I had several long Allen keys of the appropriate size and a set of ball ended Allen keys – I left the exhaust pipes in place and had a pretty hard time getting all the Allen head screws torqued to the right spec.

When you reassemble you will have to work the new radiator hoses back on this took me about 5 minutes because I didn’t want to force anything. I finally lubricated the inside of the hoses with pure antifreeze to make them slide on a little easier. I did use the OEM wire clamps that were still serviceable. Have the 3 bolts that hold the radiator on handy when you reinstall. Also when you put the radiator back on the bike make sure you refit the overflow hose and make sure the small clamp is still there if not you will need to replace it.

Once you reassemble and refill you need to follow the procedure outlined in the owners manual to “Burp” the system. A lot easier if you use the Stant radiator cap as once your are at the stage to burp the system you just lift the red lever.

After I did the cooling system service my bike runs 3 bars cooler than before it seldom turns the warning light on except when I’m sitting at a light and if it does, raising the rpm’s slightly gets the light to shut off. Once I’m underway the temperature drop 2 or 3 bars.

addonii
Thats pretty much the way it was explained to me ,but I like the way you describe everything a lot better than I would have done.
38special
There are a couple of good checks on the AVA home page ,in the tech center.

Part 5

Almost forgot - use your antifreeze solution to lube the "O" rings so they slide easily into their proper positions during reassembly. This is especially important on the bypass tube "O" rings as they are a fairly tight fit. I also had to use a pair of pliers with a rubber jaw facing to be able to grip the bypass tube to work it into it's proper place.

Remember to use the rubber facing in your pliers or you will butcher up the outer surface of the bypass tube.

While were still on the subject make sure you also have a set of snap ring pliers.

*bad idea to reuse old/used snap rings.

Dang! You guys are thorough. Thanks a bunch.

This will be more of a tech tips for 1300's now, so I have moved it there (here).

I was checking on the internet and found the following that should be helpful to those who are going to pull the water pump down on the 1300.

The site is Japanese and I used the translate option at Yahoo to view it - there is a reference to a magazine article "ROAD RIDER 1997 JULY" so that may be another source.

Go to: http://translate.google.com/translate?h ... 26rls%3Den

You should see pictures of the water pump housing tear down, tools needed and part numbers.

It is interesting reading the Japanese / English translation - sort of like reading old Japanese motorcycle manuals form the 60's and 70's for those of you who never saw them.

*As a side note, I'm looking for the fan switch part # 27010-1026 NLA Kawasaki - I found one new in Germany but it's $80.80 would like to get one here - would like a new one.

I did check your one web site and have a clutch cable ordered. Should be here in a week. Yeah!

Well they did not have a clutch cable like they said they did. Found a new place that claimed to have one... NOT! Finally I was sitting here pondering my quandry then it hit me, "Hey, maybe the barrel is still in the shift lever." Low and behold it was! So I figured I'd dig it out carefully and see if I can reinsert the cable. It wasn't broke it just pulled out of the barrel. So I pulled it out and it fell on the floor. You guessed it, no where to be found. I moved stuff and looked all over and finally found it in a saw dust pile near my table saw. Duh! I should of looked there first.
I got the cable reinserted and gave it to my son to take to his work tomorrow and braize the end so it won't pull back out. With any luck I'll be back in business by tomorrow after work.

Before you reinstall it ,make sure the inner cable is free inside the outer cable.