Was getting ready to tackle my slipping clutch problem, and wanted to try a basic release/cable adjustment first, so I referenced my Z1300 manual and, of course it refers me to the KZ1300 manual, page 20. That's all very clear on how to adjust the clutch release, and the cable slack for the KZ1300, but it's nothing like the ZN1300 Voyager's newer engine. The older engine has the release mechanism cover on the left side, but the newer ZN1300 has the oil level sight window in that area. OK, so where is the release mechanism where the cable terminates?
The supplemental manual for the ZN1300 doesn't show this! I guess I will just have to follow the cable, huh?
Missing from supplemental manual?
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trikebldr
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addonii
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Re: Missing from supplemental manual?
As you mentioned follow the cable.
You need to remove the cover that is located between the round oil sight glass and the oil filler - once its off you will see the adjustment. Just like any older bike using a cable release going all the way back to the 60's.
Another thing on slipping - make sure you are running an oil designed for wet clutches on motorcycles. Pay attention as the designations have changed numbers since the bike was built.
For instance if you use Mobile 1 designed for automotive engines you will definitely slip some.
If you start searching for oils stay with an oil with these specifications:
10W-40 or 20W-50 API SG, SL/CF, CG-4; JASO MA/MA2; ISO-L-EMA2; API GL-1
I personally use Amsoil Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil but any motorcycle oil with the above specifications should do just fine.
You need to remove the cover that is located between the round oil sight glass and the oil filler - once its off you will see the adjustment. Just like any older bike using a cable release going all the way back to the 60's.
Another thing on slipping - make sure you are running an oil designed for wet clutches on motorcycles. Pay attention as the designations have changed numbers since the bike was built.
For instance if you use Mobile 1 designed for automotive engines you will definitely slip some.
If you start searching for oils stay with an oil with these specifications:
10W-40 or 20W-50 API SG, SL/CF, CG-4; JASO MA/MA2; ISO-L-EMA2; API GL-1
I personally use Amsoil Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil but any motorcycle oil with the above specifications should do just fine.
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trikebldr
- Elite Tourer
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- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 8:34 pm
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- Current bike(s): '82 Kawasaki KZ750 Spectre
'82 Kawasaki KZ1100D Spectre
'84 Kawasaki Voyager 1300 with
'79 Vetter Terraplane sidecar
'85 Kawasaki Voyager 1300
2001 Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII - Location: Independence, MO.
- Has liked: 0
- Been liked: 1 time
Re: Missing from supplemental manual?
Thanks, addonii!
I have no idea what kind of oil is in the bike, having bought it used. It's been 20 years since I've had a bike and had to worry about the oil, and oil designations have changed a lot. The SG, SL/CF I recognize, but not the rest! Thanks for the list of designations to look for.
I just received the new clutch friction plates, cable and removal tool to remedy the slipping problem, if I need to go that far. Gonna try a couple of oil changes first to see if that might cure it. It would be nice if the friction plates haven't been permanently coated. One of the mechanics at the dealer where I got the bike said it feels like the wrong grade of Mobile 1, and also that the plates are usually no good after running in that stuff.
I have no idea what kind of oil is in the bike, having bought it used. It's been 20 years since I've had a bike and had to worry about the oil, and oil designations have changed a lot. The SG, SL/CF I recognize, but not the rest! Thanks for the list of designations to look for.
I just received the new clutch friction plates, cable and removal tool to remedy the slipping problem, if I need to go that far. Gonna try a couple of oil changes first to see if that might cure it. It would be nice if the friction plates haven't been permanently coated. One of the mechanics at the dealer where I got the bike said it feels like the wrong grade of Mobile 1, and also that the plates are usually no good after running in that stuff.