Won't start

[samchar12]

Can't get my beast to start.

I put in a new battery and when I hit the start button sometimes it will click then will turn over slowly. Other times it turns, but just won't kick over. I am also getting a code 23 on the computer box.

Suggestions? I'm thinking of replacing the starter solenoid, but any other suggestions would be appreciated.

This is for a 1988 ZN1300 btw.

[ekap1200]

Can't get my beast to start.

I put in a new battery and when I hit the start button sometimes it will click then will turn over slowly. Other times it turns, but just won't kick over. I am also getting a code 23 on the computer box.

Suggestions? I'm thinking of replacing the starter solenoid, but any other suggestions would be appreciated.

This is for a 1988 ZN1300 btw.

Was this new battery charged to 100 percent ? Depending on what type of battery you purchased a charge rate in amp's and time of charge is listed with the paperwork of the new battery.... SAVE that paperwork for future use. Sealed batteries can only be checked by the voltage and then following the chart for time/rate to achieve 100%... if you have done this, then check your B+ and B- cables for corrosion on the wire and where they terminate.
Something could have been overlooked and is just plain not tight......

[samchar12]

Yes, charged it overnight and then a little more while trying to start. I even connected my car to it via jumper cables (car not running) and still either wouldn't turn or was sluggish. When it did finally turn properly it wouldn't fire.

Will give cables a look see. Are new ones available or just used?

[cranky]

... I know you don't want to hear this, but I've seen car starters that with a
good battery and jumper, they would not turn over right... it was the starter....

[samchar12]

I've been there. I am looking at the solenoid first as I hear a clicking sometimes. May also see about a few new relays.

The bike sat for 10 years before I got it so it has some issues and gremlins. I did get it to run a year ago, but it would sputter and backfire, haven't done much with it since.

Hoping to ride the beast one day.

[cranky]

... I just know you can do it!!! Best to Ya!!!

[samchar12]

Thanks. Will replace some parts and hopefully luck out.

[samchar12]

Did a test and it failed the Engine Speed Test. What does that mean? The manual isn't good on explaining failed tests. Also some of the tests where there should be 0 voltage show minor voltage. Ground fault or wiring issue perhaps?

[Me Again]

set the book down for a minute and go with your gut.
does the pump turn on and shut off after 5 seconds ?
if not ,check your relay and /or fuses
Do you have spark?
if yes than shut the gas off and turn the key on a few times to get the gas out of the lines .
Attempt to start it with gas off and wide open throttle .
Does it try to start?
Pull a plug and check it . Is it wet or dry?
if wet and you have spark than it is flooded and you may just have to crank a bit to get it started .
This is a place to start .
Try these and let us know what happens .

[samchar12]

Yes it goes on and runs for 5 seconds or so and I get good fuel flow. I believe the plugs were wet, but will check again this weekend. It just weakly turns over then it will get strong and die off while pushing start button. The battery is new and I checked the cables last weekend and they look good with no obvious corrosion. I pulled the relays and cleaned the terminals as well. I just don't know if its electrical or fuel related at this point.

I need to know what code 23 means, that is my starting point. Coils or wires maybe?


If I don't get it started soon if will show up on Ebay in part form.

[Me Again]

Without getting all techy ,the 23 code means it did not start .
I would check for a ground either from the starter or stators .either of these may cause the slow turn over you described .
I know I will get flack from this but I would jump it with your car.Short bursts on the starter with time to cool off .
The only reason I mention the car battery is you may be able to get it to turn over fast enough and long enough to get it started

[samchar12]

I will look for a ground issue. I tried to jump it with car (not running) and same thing.

[Me Again]

I would suggest you do most of this with the gas off so you do not just keep putting gas is the cylinders .
it justs winds up in the oil and blocks the vent.
Once you find the problem and get it to turn over good you can turn it back on .

[samchar12]

So performed the tests in the supplement and failed the Starter Signal Test. So not sure if the relay or solenoid is bad. Any way to test either? I pulled plugs and it cranks easy. Put them back in and it will crank a little then nothing then try again. Battery is new, but could it be low in CCA to turn the beast over?

Still getting code 23 BTW.

Also noted when doing tests that even when there is not supposed to be any current when switched off I am getting a small current most of the time. What does that tell? I hate electronic gremlins, so hard to track down.

[Van Voyager]

Also noted when doing tests that even when there is not supposed to be any current when switched off I am getting a small current most of the time. What does that tell? I hate electronic gremlins, so hard to track down.

Not 100% sure of the 88's but if they're like my 86, the radio/clock use power for sure when the bike is off. Could be some other stuff requiring some trickle current too.

[samchar12]

Also noted when doing tests that even when there is not supposed to be any current when switched off I am getting a small current most of the time. What does that tell? I hate electronic gremlins, so hard to track down.

Not 100% sure of the 88's but if they're like my 86, the radio/clock use power for sure when the bike is off. Could be some other stuff requiring some trickle current too.

Its the same. Clock uses power, but according to the manual the meter should read 0 during certain tests and I am getting a small reading. Don't know it its normal or I have a short somewhere.

[Me Again]

If you believe it is an electrical problem the best place to start is the switch itself . That is a big harness that the tank pushes on constantly .
Next place is the ECU itself. Make extra sure that the pin connectors are TIGHT . I once spent 2 months tracing the harness back and forth until I realized the problem was a single loose pin in the harness at the ECU . I also have one ECU that although everything seems to work the bike will not start .Plug in a different one and bike starts fine .

[samchar12]

I don't know what it is. Just reporting what my testing has found. Will open Starter this weekend and clean it out, maybe replace solenoid.

Are the relays on both sides of the bike interchangeable?

[Me Again]

all the round relays are the same