I’m replacing my clutch for the first time and looking for advice!

[woodsm84]

If I understand the process correctly, it should go similar to this?

Soak the new plates
Drain oil
Remove case
Remove spring bolts and springs
Pull off pressure plate
Remove old clutch plates (does the plates orientation in the basket matter?)
Add new plates
Add new springs
Replace and rebolt pressure plate
Add new gasket
Bolt cover back on
Billed from the slave cylinder and add new fluid

What steps am I missing?

[triton28]

On a pre 1991 model that is pretty much the way to do it with the following caveat: the last friction plate to be installed has the tangs rotated 1 groove of the housing slots; see service manual Section 5 page 10.
As well the 2 thinner steel plates are the first and the last steel plates installed, the thicker plates being the 2nd through the 7th plates installed.
It gets a little more complicated with 1991 and later plate assemblies as the stack height needs to be measured and the steel plate thickness/es may need adjusting to get to the specified clearances; see service manual "Supplement" section 5 page 4.

[Bonnie and Clyde]

Tell us what year your bike is. How many miles are on it and why you think the clutch needs changing. Please and thankyou

[triton28]

Unless the plate assembly has been abused it is uncommon for clutch slippage to be due to plate wear, although of course it does occur to some units without being abused.
Generally the small return hole in the master cylinder is not open or it is becoming blocked with corrosion and the line pressure can not be released which results in a disengaged clutch assembly.
Another cause I have seen is the slave cylinder piston can't return into the cylinder bore due to corrosion in the groove behind the internal rubber piston seal. The corrosion forces the rubber seal out tight against the piston thus causing a lack of clearance, normal clearance would allow the piston to move easily in the bore.
A third cause could be a missing or deteriorated slave cylinder spacer, the black plastic 3 hole piece that goes between the slave cylinder and the aluminium bevel gear housing.
Another possible culprit is the pressure plate springs and I find these are usually below the minimum length allowable. But even old tired springs generally don't slip unless the bike is really loaded down in 3rd gear, going uphill, with a sudden roll-on of the throttle and then they might, just might, slip.
And of course as I stated earlier, some units do in fact wear out and need plate replacement, although I suspect more plates have been changed out than were actually needed.
Just my opinion though and I am sure others have had additional causes which can be related.
Dave

[woodsm84]

Tell us what year your bike is. How many miles are on it and why you think the clutch needs changing. Please and thankyou

Sorry to take so long getting back. It was slipping beyond drivability. The plates looked terrible. I have no throw on my lever now unfortunately. Gotta find out what I missed

[KevinZ]

How is your progress coming?
I had my clutch and brake fluid changed in 2021. The tech changed out the levers and master cylinders due to corrosion.
Have you been able to bleed the clutch system with new fluid?