Question before buying

[GimpyZX6R]

Hello from Texas!! I’ve been poking around here as I’m debating on picking up a 2003 with a trailer for under $2k. It’s got reasonably high miles at just under 90k. I’m wondering about how much it would run me to replace all the rubber hoses, and if there are any that are hard to put my hands on since they haven’t made this model in 20 years now.

Thanks in advance, and keep it shiny side up!!

[Nails]

I'll reply to your broad question with a broad reply: I suggest holding out for a better example, doing this kind of replacement as part of maintenance, over time.

[GrandpaDenny]

I'll reply to your broad question with a broad reply: I suggest holding out for a better example, doing this kind of replacement as part of maintenance, over time.

Aww, c'mon, Nails, cheap old bikes can be fun! Example: Gertrude! Ok, well, if you aren't good with a wrench, then a cheap old bike would not be a wise investment. It's been fun, steadily improving Gertrude from the rolling wreck she was - of course I never saw her that way, having stars in my eyes over buying my dream bike so cheaply. I mean, to ride her home all she needed was a jump to get to the store to get a new battery. I rode her all over the place, even with the square E3s she had, till I got new ones. Discovered the clapped-out front springs, put in Progressives. I've spent more in tires than she cost me! The crappy kronked-up carbs I didn't replace till over 50k miles later, kept putting seafoam and Techron in the tank, which kept improving her. So finally at around 102k I think it was (without looking) I put the new carbs (that I bought from Carl Leo at least a year ago) on, rebuilt the front forks, replaced the totally gone front wheel bearings (that a "certified mechanic" had JUST told me were fine when I had new tires put on!), and replaced the clutch spider springs (known weak point), replaced the front discs (old ones wrecked thanks to the old wheel bearings), rebuilt the forks (leaking because of the old wheel bearings), a choke cable, and a speedo cable, and that's been it. And boy, oh boy, has she been fun all along the way. Now that she's running right (most of the time) man she FLIES.

I've thought many times about getting a Concours 1000, but for 7mph more and 6 feet shorter stopping distance (stock, with sintered brake pads and stainless brake lines she probably stops shorter than a stock C10 now) I'll keep the "extra" 150 pounds of cruise control, rear trunk, stereo, and comfort of the Voyager XII. Not enough difference in performance to warrant the change to a C10.

[GimpyZX6R]

That’s the attitude I like Denny!!

Current owner rides it, and the bike is not in disrepair. My broad question is limited to rubber bits that deteriorate over time due to age and heat exposure. Hoses, carb boots, etc.
I’d just like to change these things for my own piece of mind when looking at near 100k miles on a used bike. Trying to figure out what it’s going to cost me to feel confident that I won’t blow a hose and puke out coolant on the highway. I enjoy turning a wrench, so it’s all parts scarcity and rough cost info I’m seeking. I’m already thinking I can most likely 3D print things like the carb boots, as I’ve read on here those can be hard to find if needed.

I got speed out of my system years ago with a 636 ninja, and want to get into something comfortable, that my lady will also be comfortable on.

[GrandpaDenny]

Gertrude's faster than a 600 Ninja LOL. Blew my mind when I discovered that!

Some of the rubber parts are unobtainable, out of production, however there are available substitutes with some modifications. Check the Tech section for details.

[Nails]

My broad question is limited to rubber bits that deteriorate over time due to age and heat exposure. Hoses, carb boots, etc.
I’d just like to change these things for my own piece of mind when looking at near 100k miles on a used bike. Trying to figure out what it’s going to cost me to feel confident that I won’t blow a hose and puke out coolant on the highway. I enjoy turning a wrench, so it’s all parts scarcity and rough cost info I’m seeking. I’m already thinking I can most likely 3D print things like the carb boots, as I’ve read on here those can be hard to find if needed.

Yeah, all that stuff should be replaced by-and-by. Don't forget O-rings. But I remind you that there is an alternate theory that you shouldn't fix stuff that ain't broke.

Some rubber stuff, like the carb boots you mention or the gaskets on the carb pistons, don't really need to be replaced until they get brittle. Other stuff, like that dozen or so O-rings under the oil pan, probably should be changed out if/when you get into there for some better reason like a leaky oil pan gasket or a smashed pan. Coolant hoses: sure, go for it. (Research parts options here first). Knock out O-rings in the thermostat housing and elsewhere while you're in there. Lots of replacements for the carbs. I just don't know what to tell you. You'll still have to do maintenance work besides all this.

You're kinda asking what it costs to take the whole bike apart and put it back together with all new gaskets and seals. A lot, and that seems a little overboard. I can't estimate a total price because I changed that stuff out as I went through the bike, over a few years, as I needed to get into this and that -- didn't keep accounts. As a first cut, take your best guess after looking at the manual and supply houses, and then triple it. You've wrenched enough to know that.

I can't speak to what it might take to satisfy your confidence. You can make these bikes "like new" -- lots of examples here. (I wouldn't know.) But they still might break down.

In the end, I think you'd be better off focusing on the common problems as expressed in this blog, like that sticky for new owners. And then fix those right -- plus any new problems that crop up. This ideal of replacing everything all at once doesn't seem very workable, and it sure won't prevent all problems you can look forward to fixing.

[GimpyZX6R]

Thanks for the input Nails. I was just hoping to get a general idea of what simply replacing external rubber bits might run me. I figure if I’m changing out all fluids, I might as well plan on associated hoses and such. Internal gaskets and o rings would only be a concern once they give me a reason to be concerned by them.

[VoyKimmer]

I have over 105000 miles on my 2002 Voyager. It’s been totaled hitting a Deer over 10 years ago. I rebuilt it but the engine was fine. Over 4 years ago i was going to the AVA INTERNATIONAL rally in West Virginia and my transmission went out. After the rally I put it on a truck and took it to Carl Leo in Florida. He replaced the transmission. These Voyagers are just machines with moving parts. They do break from time to time but these machines are very reliable. I have never been stranded I have had one hose replaced that started splitting and leaking while not to far from home. All the rest are original. I would not go replacing parts just for the hell of it. Like nails said . IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT.

[GrandpaDenny]

I'll also go with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" with an added change "if it ain't about to break, don't fix it". 24 years old, 108000 miles, all the rubber stuff except front brake lines and of course tires are probably original and still in fine shape, knock on wood. They could have potentiall been replaced before I bought her 54000 miles ago, but with the DSPO stuff I've been dealing with from day one, I highly doubt it. Poor old Gertrude was NOT well taken care of by her previous owners. I try to take good care of her, and I ride the kronk out of her. I don't have money to throw at her, either. The carbs and air box were hosed when I bought her, and I finally got them replaced this year. I make my last payment to the mechanic next week woo hoo!

Having said that, I still haven't replaced the leaking-when-it's-really-cold-overnight coolant pipe o-rings. Maybe this month coming up. They only dribble a little bit, making me top off the coolant maybe two or three times over the winter. I park in the street (apartment) so it's not messing up a garage floor. So, it hasn't been a high priority.

I replaced the front brake lines with stainless braided lines (Galfer), not because the old ones were visibly shot per se, but yes, they were of unknown age, probably original, and I like to play in the twisties, so I wanted the best possible braking. Sintered brake pads (only the front, not necessary on the rear imo). "Major" upkeep planned for this fall (I do all my timed fluid changes (as in annual, every two years, etc) in October usually) is to rebuld the front calipers. Again, they're original. I may also FINALLY replace the rear brake line - I've had the stainless replacement since, well, when I bought the front ones, probably two years ago.

[GimpyZX6R]

Thanks to everyone for their input. Hopefully I should be posting some pics within a few weeks of the new to me Voyager with matching trailer!!