2002 Voyager XII Brakes Question

[glvnthedream]

I just got this 2002 Voyager XII and it has been sitting for a while. I just replaced the front fork seals, rear shocks, and brake pads in front after installing the forks.

The piston was tough to get pushed in on the left and the right calipers but I got the new pads in and did a test ride. Found the brakes were sticking a bit and had a squeal. So, I took both calipers back off and verified the metal clip was positioned correctly and cleaned them up a little, and reinstalled . It was late so I called it a night and waited till morning before test driving. This morning when I went to test drive the front brakes were not releasing.

As I said this bike has not been ridden often in the past couple of years and I wanted some advice on whether this could be a caliper piston problem or something else. How difficult to break the calipers down, clean them, and then reinstall them? With the calipers likely being original, are there typical parts that should likely order before pulling them apart and typically fail after this many years?

I am a new motorcycle owner and rider so this is an all-new experience all around for me.

Thanks in advance. Hope there is enough info to get an idea of what I am asking.

[Van Voyager]

First check that the master cylinder equalizing port is not blocked. If that port is plugged, the pads can't retract properly, causing the brakes to heat up, increasing the pressure on the pads, and so on, until the wheel locks up. It's very common for that port to get plugged (on any bike) after the bike sits for an extended period.

[glvnthedream]

Considering it’s my first time working with brakes, could you put that in laymen’s terms with a location and how to check.

First check that the master cylinder equalizing port is not blocked. If that port is plugged, the pads can't retract properly, causing the brakes to heat up, increasing the pressure on the pads, and so on, until the wheel locks up. It's very common for that port to get plugged (on any bike) after the bike sits for an extended period.

[triton28]

In the master cylinder there are 2 very small holes drilled into the piston bore located on the bottom of the reservoir.
The larger hole which is the farthest from the banjo bolt connection is the feed into the piston bore and usually does not cause a problem.
The smaller hole is the one closest to the banjo bolt connection and is the hole which Van Voyager spoke of. It is this hole which usually causes all of the trouble as it corrodes up due to water content in the brake fluid: the pumped up fluid can NOT return into the master cylinder reservoir. This of course causes all parts of the system to remain under pressure.
If I recall correctly it is a # 69 or #70 numbered drill bit to clean it out or a stiff piece of wire sometimes will work.
Be careful and cover any and all plastics under the MC reservoir when working the lever with the cover off as the return hole does erupt fluid when it is open and the hand lever is released.
Dave

[glvnthedream]

Thank you for the follow-up and details. I will check it out and post my findings.

Much appreciated!!!

In the master cylinder there are 2 very small holes drilled into the piston bore located on the bottom of the reservoir.
The larger hole which is the farthest from the banjo bolt connection is the feed into the piston bore and usually does not cause a problem.
The smaller hole is the one closest to the banjo bolt connection and is the hole which Van Voyager spoke of. It is this hole which usually causes all of the trouble as it corrodes up due to water content in the brake fluid: the pumped up fluid can NOT return into the master cylinder reservoir. This of course causes all parts of the system to remain under pressure.
If I recall correctly it is a # 69 or #70 numbered drill bit to clean it out or a stiff piece of wire sometimes will work.
Be careful and cover any and all plastics under the MC reservoir when working the lever with the cover off as the return hole does erupt fluid when it is open and the hand lever is released.
Dave

[glvnthedream]

That was the issue. Though I wasn’t ready for the geyser that erupted. I had rags tuck under and around the reservoir and carefully inserted the bit. Twist and a little pressure pushing down and the clog cleared spectacularly with brake fluid flying.

It was a quick dash for soap and water to clean up.

Brakes are back to operational.

Thank you

In the master cylinder there are 2 very small holes drilled into the piston bore located on the bottom of the reservoir.
The larger hole which is the farthest from the banjo bolt connection is the feed into the piston bore and usually does not cause a problem.
The smaller hole is the one closest to the banjo bolt connection and is the hole which Van Voyager spoke of. It is this hole which usually causes all of the trouble as it corrodes up due to water content in the brake fluid: the pumped up fluid can NOT return into the master cylinder reservoir. This of course causes all parts of the system to remain under pressure.
If I recall correctly it is a # 69 or #70 numbered drill bit to clean it out or a stiff piece of wire sometimes will work.
Be careful and cover any and all plastics under the MC reservoir when working the lever with the cover off as the return hole does erupt fluid when it is open and the hand lever is released.
Dave