Flushing rear and front shocks

[G8Voyager]

2001 XII - I am going to take the winter months and add progressive springs to front shocks and change oil in rear.

1. What (chemical) is everyone using to flush the shocks out with?
2. What is a good flush procedure to follow for front?
3. What is a good flush procedure to follow for rear shocks?

Regarding Front Progressive Springs:
4. Besides the dust and oil seals is there any another replacement parts I should consider for front. (As long as it is all apart I want to make sure I get it all and order it all before taking apart.)

Thanks,
Greg

[G8Voyager]

Front questions,
Yes, I have been to Jeffs website but it does not cover flushing process. I want to make sure I only use a chemical that will not damage any interior parts. So I still need advise on my 4 questions:
1. What (chemical) is everyone using to flush the shocks out with?
2. What is a good flush procedure to follow for front?
3. What is a good flush procedure to follow for rear shocks?

Regarding Front Progressive Springs:
4. Besides the dust and oil seals is there any another replacement parts I should consider for front. (As long as it is all apart I want to make sure I get it all and order it all before taking apart.)

NEW QUESTION:
5. Jeffs instructions clearly show( or indicate) he never removed the forks from the bike like other instructions say to do. I think removal is best but has anyone experience with doing this and not removing forks( like in Jeffs procedure)



Rear Questions:
I read others say that you should just buy the progressive rears shocks. I am thinking about the 416's. Does anyone have experience with the 416 series. But then again so many others just change the oil, so I still have a decision to make. I did find the 416's on a Christmas special for $298...so that seems to be a good deal if others can tell me if they liked them or not?

[G8Voyager]

Larry,
Thanks for the response.
After reading your advise I am going to leave the forks on. Now if others can add to and give specific advise on my other questions.

UPDATE: This is not good idea so I took the forks off....
Greg

[voyager 2002]

when i did mine last summer first i pulled them off the bike then turned them up side down and put them in my 20 ton press and compressed them to force the old oil out about three cycles then when i refilled them stood them up right and compressed them then took a air line like the one on the bike and stuck that in the new oil and just let the shock suck the new oil in when i released the press two times and all the new oil was sucked in. i made sure the new oil was warm so it went in real easy. i am going to do the front and try and use the same set up to suck the oil in or pump it in from the bottom or use vacuum on the air line to suck new oil in

[Tom(North Alabama)]

I put new 416 rear shocks on my '02 last summer, made a world of difference
I then had Carl rebuild my front forks and install the Progressive springs. The bike rides like a sport touring bike now, what a huge difference. By the way, if you look around some, I found my 416 shocks for $225. shipped, they were on sale.

[G8Voyager]

Tom
Do you know website you found 416 for $225?
I know the site will not have same price buy it might help.
I decided to get the 416's so I will give you all a chance to help me,
best I found for price is $298, who can find them cheaper and let me know?
A contest for us all! (I am not good at web seaching sale items)

Thank you all so far-anyone have the flush question answers?

[Mr Jensee]

Just to be clear, if you haven't flushed the oil out of the forks and the bike is fairly old there will be a sludge build up in them that can only come out if they are removed and inverted. some dirt does get past the seals and will settle in the base of the forks.

[Rhinestone Kawboy]

Front questions,
Yes, I have been to Jeffs website but it does not cover flushing process. I want to make sure I only use a chemical that will not damage any interior parts. So I still need advise on my 4 questions:
1. What (chemical) is everyone using to flush the shocks out with?
2. What is a good flush procedure to follow for front?
3. What is a good flush procedure to follow for rear shocks?

Regarding Front Progressive Springs:
4. Besides the dust and oil seals is there any another replacement parts I should consider for front. (As long as it is all apart I want to make sure I get it all and order it all before taking apart.)

NEW QUESTION:
5. Jeffs instructions clearly show( or indicate) he never removed the forks from the bike like other instructions say to do. I think removal is best but has anyone experience with doing this and not removing forks( like in Jeffs procedure)



Rear Questions:
I read others say that you should just buy the progressive rears shocks. I am thinking about the 416's. Does anyone have experience with the 416 series. But then again so many others just change the oil, so I still have a decision to make. I did find the 416's on a Christmas special for $298...so that seems to be a good deal if others can tell me if they liked them or not?

You definitely should flush the forks. Mine were sticking at the bottom of the stroke, but no longer did after a good flush. To answer your other questions:

I used low order paint thinner (not Turpentine) to flush my forks.

I used the changing front fork oil and springs article in the AVA tech center to do this. I feel it is best to do it this way (removing forks), and for the record, Carl recommends removing the forks to service them also and refill with fork oil.

Jeff's instructions work good for the rear shocks. If you want to spend money for new Progressive shocks, fine, but as long as the rear shocks are not leaking, you can change oil in them (and bring to proper level) and they work pretty decent.

On the front forks, you should also replace the fork bushings when changing out the seals.

[G8Voyager]

Gary,
No question about it, I agree the front forks need to come off to do it correctly. I will use your method to clean out the forks and great advise on changing the bushings.

Thanks.

I plan on keeping the bike so I think I will still go for the Pregressive suspension 416 series rear shock. Progressive P/N 416-1622a. So if anyone else have experience with this I will still like to hear about it. ( and get a good price if someone can find a good website)

[MTN99]

2001 XII - I am going to take the winter months and add progressive springs to front shocks and change oil in rear.

1. What (chemical) is everyone using to flush the shocks out with?
2. What is a good flush procedure to follow for front?
3. What is a good flush procedure to follow for rear shocks?

Regarding Front Progressive Springs:
4. Besides the dust and oil seals is there any another replacement parts I should consider for front. (As long as it is all apart I want to make sure I get it all and order it all before taking apart.)

Thanks,
Greg

Greg,

You have most of your answers, and I add a little more... When I changed my fronts out to Progressives I followed the advice of others and used Mineral spirits to flush/clean. For tear down I would recommend getting an allen hex on a socket so you can use an air impact when you remove the bottom Allen bolt.... Be sure the allen key is long enough to seat fully into the bolt or the head will round out (then you will need to drill the bolt head off like I did). inspect the bushings and replace if wear is evident (you'll be able to tell) follow the reassemble directions and use a good fork oil. the weight will be of riding preference. I used 12wt Bel Ray and have been quite satisfied, others will have other wts they like depending on riding style.

As for the best way to flush the rear shocks.... I would have to say use a Sloan valve (think handle on side of toilet)

My left rear shock was leaking and I went with the progressive 412 with the Heavy duty spring for two up & towing. Got 'em from Carl Leo and have been a happy camper since. They have 5 adj settings and I leave mine on 3 all the time.

Hope this helps...
Happy New Year....

[G8Voyager]

I want to thank everyone for the responses plus for all the other forum topics that cover the Voyager Suspensions.

I ended up with the following decision and will let you all know how it goes this spring. Perhaps I will even take a few photos along with installation this winter and post them.

So here is the parts I decided on and have most in my hands already now.

Note: all prices paid ( USD) are for new never used parts and include shipping and tax.

Front:
E-bay:
Progressive suspension fork springs 11-1102 $75.95 USD
Denniskirk.com:
All BallsFork and Dust seal kit ( no part number) $37.89
Beaver Dam Wi Kawasaki Dealer:
(2) O-ring spring seat 92055-1363 $6.20 ( for 2)
(4) O-ring Air Tube 92055-1364 $14.76 ( for 4)
Cheapcycleparts.com:
Bushing front fork 44055-1079 $17.56 ( for 2)
Bushing front fork In 44065-1080 $23.58 (for 2)

Rear:
PhatPerformanceParts.com
Progressive Supenssion 416 Air shocks 416-1622A $299.08
Progressive Suspension Kawasaki airline adapt kit 30-5086 $19.95

[G8Voyager]

I am now complete with the front and rear suspension upgrade.

In addition to above listed parts I already had added the front fork Superbrace.

A few items of note regarding the process:


Take pictures as you disassemble the front end. I used them several times during reinstallation to assure I got it back into original.

"Front end wobble": I tried to tighten the steam prior to removing the entire forks by just loosing the fork bolds. I wanted to see if I could do it as others say so I could do it again in future if needed. With fork bolts what I thought was loose, I could not get the locking nut to turn at all - not even close to the 1/2 inch ( with a long screwdriver) or so as other instructions state is needed if there is a problem. Yes, others do state to loosen the forks, but I can tell you that to tighten the looking nut you really-really have to loosen the 4 bottom bolts holding the forks! When you tighten on the tree collar nut it has to be able to pull the bottom of the tree upward. After I had the forks removed it "easily" moved 1/2 inch. You will have to wait until you get the forks reinstalled prior to tighten the 22mm large upper tree bolt again. As long as you are at it why not readjust your handlebars to match your riding style. Most of us buy a bike and just never move them to a comfortable position.

Front forks flushing/rebuild: I strongly recommend that if you are going to go through all this trouble that you do it correctly. Do not just leave the forks on the bike like some say they do. When I dissembled mine the oil was real dark and dirty. I decided to take them to local shop that has cleaning tank and proper circulating pumps for flushing. Besides I did not want to attempt removing the bottom fork bolts without impact wrench. ( actually I did put the proper size allen wrench in there and I really felt like I would strip them out if I continued) I needed to get the forks apart because I wanted to change the sleeves anyway. So, I was at dealer and they took forks apart, Wow lots of mucky stuff in there and the sleeves did show some wear ( 12,000 miles). Again why not get it done right?

Front Fork Reassemble: Easy... Never removed the front fairing and all fork bolts are easy to get to for removal and reinstallation. I was on my own so I used a 2x4 cut to proper length to hold one fork up at a time to be level with top of fork tree. I ran with 10 weight oil and only 1psi pressure.

Speedometer cable: As long as you are at it pull the inside of your Speedo cable out. I did and I noticed it must have had the water issue that other had. I ordered a new one. I did not take the bottom Speedo gears completely apart but I was changing front wheel bearings I had the proper seals to take the large gear out and clean out the rest of the assemble. It took me awhile but using brake cleaner I got all the dirt out of the assemble and repacked with grease. It turned so much more easy.

Brakes: Great time to change brake pads and clean them messy little buggers all up. Nothing special about this one except buy some brake cleaner and get all the built up dirt off the inside of brakes prior to just changing the pads. Remember to put something between pads while they are not assembled with rotor between them, I used a wood door shims to do this.

Rear Shocks: Easier then anticipated but with a few comments. You can change shocks without removing the back top luggage compartment. You can simple slide it backward for easy removal of shocks. I bought the adaptor needed to install the airlines to the new progressive 416s and it all went together so well. You keep same air lines all the way to back and adapt to new shocks. Need to angle the air intakes on the shocks 45 degrees inward and toward front of bike. Needed to use a floor jack to push up on the rear to get holes to realign to shock mounts. Take note that the new shocks come with various insert sleeves to match mounting stubs. I found out the hard way that they are not the same on both sides. No big deal to change to proper but non the less they are different. I am currently running 27psi.

Results: Wow- Wow -Wow, Adding progressive suspension to both front and rear is like buying a new bike. Yes, it is cold in Wisconsin but I did get the bike out for a good ride and I am still amazed at the results. I am on my 3rd voyager now and have never felt control of it better. The front is so much more stable in curves ( hard driven and slow tight turns), no more front wobble. The rear is firm yet smooth - It "glides" you over bumps and makes the bike feel like it wants to stay on the road. I wish I had spent the monies on my previous two. Anyone that is ever close to Manitowoc, WI can feel free to send me an e-mail and stop by and take it for a spin yourself....