Clutch problem

[Ozymandias]

I could use some advice and information or opinions from the experts here. I have a 2010 Voyager that has developed a clutch problem when cold. The last few times that I rode it I ran into this; it was fine before although there seemed to be a time or two in the last several months that may have hinted at a looming problem. I will describe the symptoms as well as I can.

If I don't warm it up for 7 to 10 minutes I get really bad clutch binding - or at least that is what I would call it. To explain further, on first starting and in neutral the clutch lever seems to feel "funny" as though it is not engaging/disengaging as smoothly as it used to. If I shift into 1st gear and try to let out the clutch lever I get as sort of stick, release, stick, release kind of action and it won't fully engage even though the clutch lever is in the fully engaged position. It jerks when I try to engage but slips as though i am holding the clutch lever part way in. It reminds me of a rusty hinge where it moves in short "bursts" alternating between swinging and sticking as it opens. My (admittedly uninformed guess) is that the slave cylinder or equivalent is jamming until the heat loosens up the lubricant or fluid or whatever wherever the underlying problem is. The fluid level in the reservoir shows in the sight glass and, besides, when it warms up I don't have the problem.

If I let it warm up until everything has reached operating temperature then it smooths out and works the way it used to - nice and smooth release. Furthermore, it can then sit for hours without a recurrence of the problem. If it sits overnight then I have to go through the full warmup again. I'm supposed to take it to a mechanic at the dealer next week but it's 150 miles away and I would like to know what to expect. Thanks in advance for any insight anyone can offer.

Also, would it be better to not ride the bike until I take it to the mechanic or should I ride it each day to keep the problem "loosened up"?

[Superdave54]

You might have air in your system, or sticking in your master or slave cylinders.

I would flush your clutch hydraulic actuator system thoroughly with a good replacement synthetic Dot 4 fluid. At the age of your bike, your front and rear brakes should be done as well. I used Amsoil fluid, but have used Prestone synthetic with acceptable results. It won't cost you much to try this. Use clear tubing on the bleed fitting so you can see how bad the old fluid is, and see if any air bubbles persist.

Cover EVERYTHING you do not want to get brake fluid on, especially painted surfaces. I use a turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of my master cylinders, and rags and Q-Tips to get the last bit out. Good Luck.

[Ozymandias]

I think probably not air in the system. There is none of the mushy feeling that would accompany the presence of bubbles. The sticking of a cylinder sounds likely. That seems consistent with some of the things I have been reading about. I hope that it provides a fairly simple fix. That would be much better than needing major parts replacements. Thanks for your comments. When I get this taken care of I will post the results.

[HMB Don]

Another simple thing is, have you taken the pivot pin out of either the clutch or front brake lever and lubed?

[Ozymandias]

No, to the pin lube. I will check that but the levers themselves seem to move freely. Thanks for the suggestion.

[Ozymandias]

It looks like Superdave54 hit the nail on the head. I had the fluid replaced and the system flushed for the clutch and the brakes. Now everything is peachy. Thanks for your knowledgeable assistance.

[Turbo4x4]

The problem your experiencing is from moisture build at the clutch actuator piston. The cause is from an inadequate seal at the cylinder location. This causes corrosion on the piston itself, which causes the stickyness you're feeling. Sometimes it gets so bad you can't pull the clutch in at all. You'll usually get a squeeky sound at the clutch piston when this is about to get worse. There are two fixes. 1. Remove the hydraulic piston assembly at the clutch, disassemble, carefully polish the corrosion from the both the piston and cylinder wall, and carefully reassemble. Bleed the existing fluid PRIOR to reassembly. The 2nd method simply involves buying a rebuild kit from your dealer and installing.

Flushing alone is only a temporary fix. The problem WILL reoccur. Been there, done that.

Hope this helps.

[Ozymandias]

Yes, you were right about the reoccurrence of the problem. I had to have the release assembly replaced (under extended warranty). Now all is good again. Thanks again to all of you for your help.

[TheAudiDoc]

yea mine stranded me on the side of the road !!! 1 week after complaining about it to the dealer! seized tight....i fixed it in someones driveway