Oil level in site glass

[Lucasind]

...I remember a year or so ago ...debron (I think) started a post asking what we all do with that extra
10 oz of oil......all of this was discussed at length and everyone shared what they do with the leftover
oil. ....................tony

[ghostler]

After 11 oil changes, you'd have enough of the 10-ounces-a-pop left over oil to do another oil change.

[Littlebeaver]

The PO told me he put in 3 quarts 22 ounces of oil, used both drain plugs and new filter... The level of the oil was right on the marks in the site glass,, the marks on my 99 model are on the lower side of the sight glass, as you can see the oil is making it's way up,, by morning I expect it will be on the mark...I put in 118 ounces

[Littlebeaver]

Ok . I have given the oil plenty of time to make it's way up and around the engine, I fired it up a few times,,,, I re checked the level tonight and I am pleased,, It's right where it was when I changed it, but but it's cleaner now ... So I guess I can measure accurately ... I like showing stuff... Here's a photo ....3 qts. 22 oz or 118 ounces.. So don't freak out if you don't see the oil in the window right away,, it's slow to rise like me getting out of bed..

[delsurfin]

Just did my oil change-noticed when I was done it was about 1/3 the way up. Now I won't panic I will recheck after a short ride tomorrow Than ks
ED

[Trdinora]

So i came across this post and i find the location of the window to be annoying to say the least. My center stand appears to be broken
It takes my 155 lbs. Along wirh a full grown man to pull it backwards to get it to work. I tried the mirror and its too far away to see lol. I looked for a possible dip stick online and no go. I quit.

[cranky]

... I have a 4$ vanity mirror 4x5 and I set it on my drivers floorboard and
look for the window... and there it is... I've never lost a drop since I've
had my sweet Gina..... much-to-do about nothing, methinks... and yes
you DO hafta know for sure!!!!

[doug of so fla]

So i came across this post and i find the location of the window to be annoying to say the least. My center stand appears to be broken
It takes my 155 lbs. Along wirh a full grown man to pull it backwards to get it to work. I tried the mirror and its too far away to see lol. I looked for a possible dip stick online and no go. I quit.

Your center stand should have TWO levers right next to each other, You deploy the small one first, that lowers the feet down parallel with the ground then you just step on the larger one and slightly lift rear grab rail straight up, XII should pop right up, UNLESS!!! some one has bent the 1st section (plate that small lever is welded to should be parallel to other plate) & both feet should be absolutely flat on the pavement when in down position. Or your suspension is sacked out??

Oil sight glass is useless!! simply drain BOTH oil drain plugs and replace filter and put in 3qts 22oz and forget about it, cause it will not burn enough oil to worry about..

[vxiirider]

I have made up some small mirrors ( approximately 1" X 1") with double sided tape on the back. When your stick one to the back of the side stand safety switch you can see the oil site glass from a standing position on the left side of your bike.I used to bring them to the rallies to sell for a couple of bucks. I may have a small number left out in my shop and will send one to anyone interested until they are gone.

[tnpete]

Leftover oil for me, not an issue. Truck takes 10 gallons, same brand as the bike. Tractor takes 2.5 gallons, and well you can see. Any left over from the bike. Can find a home easy around here. 1989 Bronco takes 6 qtrs. Same brand of oil.
But I did make a PVC pipe that drains into a 2.5 gallon oil jug. Always turn my jugs over on the PVC pipe. Unreal how much oil you can collect out of 10 gallon oil jugs. Most times I find a qrt after the Kenworth oil change.

[RobertRN]

Took mine to a local place for an oile change. They didn't tighten the drain plugs, and now the oil is on my garage floor. Don't know how much leaked out, so have to use the site glass. How long should I wait after running it to check this site glass?

[SgtSlag]

Hot oil will drain into the sump within 10-15 minutes. Make sure to put the bike on its center stand, before you look at the glass for oil level.

Buy yourself a $20 clicker Torque Wrench, and change the oil yourself: you know it is done properly, and you will never worry about it again.

I just changed mine, two days ago. Only issue I had was the new clicker wrench didn't work on the filter bolt. I suspect the bolt is stripped, as the new clicker worked just fine, on the other two drain bolts. Good news, is that after the change, rode two-up, on a six hour ride: no drips, or leaks. I did ride it a short distance of a couple of blocks, immediately afterwards, then I parked it overnight: no oil on the floor, the next morning, so the 6-hour ride was done after I did a confidence check, first.

I recommend nitrile gloves: makes cleanup much easier, and faster. I throw down a flat cardboard box, beneath the bike, after I put it on the center stand. Then I put a drain pan under it, and I use a breaker bar, with a 17mm socket on it, to loosen the two drain plugs, and the filter bolt. Pull the filter off, replace the small O-ring (wetting it with oil, before sliding it over the shaft, into position), wet the rubber grommets on the new filter with fresh oil, push it into place on the bolt. If the grommets push out, just push them back in until they seat properly -- a little oil on the shaft of the bold will help them slide easier. Observe, and note, how the pieces are placed on the bolt: spring, first; then the steel washer; then the filter; then the cap on top of the filter, with the threads poking through it. Replace the rubber O-ring on the filter cover plate with new, from the filter kit, wetting it first, with fresh oil -- you will need to press it in place, to fully seat it in the groove. Put the filter back in, torquing it to 14.5 foot-pounds. Replace the two drain plugs, torquing them to 22 foot-pounds -- make certain you have the silver washers on these bolts before you put them back in! Then pour 3 quarts 22 ounces of oil into the filler hole, on the left side of the transmission, behind the chrome plastic body cover. Done. I never worry about the sight glass, nor the level of oil in it.

It is not difficult, and it will take you less than an hour, after the first time. You will know that everything was done properly, and you can ride without fear, or concern. You will also save $50-$100+ on an oil change (average Shop Rate is $90-$100+ per hour of labor)! Cheers!

[RobertRN]

Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to go through the details. Will definitely do my own from here on out.

[hank43]

Maybe it's to compensate for the short riding season, or maybe to ease our frozen brains, but the oil volume question is easier in Canada, where oil is sold in litres. I admire the skill of U.S. riders who can open a one quart can and measure out 22 oz.

Admire as you should. Afterall, Folger coffee cans measure 2 pounds, or 3 pounds, or a whopping 52 ounces. We're all confused on weights and measures.
Gone are the days of inch-pound-foot measures, 2x4 lumber that actually measures 2" X 4" etc!

hank43

[HMB Don]

Just reading the posts. Saw where John said he had some small mirror's that stick on to the side stand base. I bought one many years ago, what a tool, you never have to get on your knees again to check your oil. On my 2002 Voyager 3 qts 22 oz always had the oil level in the middle of the site glass.
This was important because I use Amsoil, with the K & N filer. I would always go between 7,000 and 10,000 miles between oil changes. Never had to add oil between oil changes, that little mirror did its job, when I wanted to check my oil level. Just remember to clean the mirror.

The 1700 still goes long distance between oil services

[mrbmoran2]

Hello everyone,
I have a new to me 2003 Xll, it had 12,800 miles on it when I bought and was very clean including the bottom of the engine. I changed the oil not long after buying it and reading posts on here about putting too much oil in with the wrong oil and poor shift quality. The PO had used Valvoline 10w-40, and 4 quarts. I drained both plugs and changed the filter, with T6 in 15w-40. The shifts improved, and I have almost 15,000 miles on the bike now.

The last long trip I was riding quite spirited on the way home and that trip was highway and about 200 miles. I've now noticed a ticking sound when I start the bike, and my oil level in the site glass is barely visible. I also see quite a bit of oil residue on the left side of the bike, at the start of the muffler, the stands, and the left saddle bags.

There has never been any oil on the ground or garage floor where I park the bike. I don't see a leak anywhere. Has anyone else had this oil residue just on the left of the bike near the bottom of the engine, and behind the engine?

Should I be worried it is leaking oil while riding, or do you think that is road grime on the bike?

It does smooth out for the most part, but what about the ticking sound on startup?

Please share your thoughts or advice.

Thanks!

[GrandpaDenny]

Does the oil residue smell like gear oil? If so, you probably have an overfilled final drive. If filled to the specified "bottom of the plug opening", it will start pushing gear oil out the front of the shaft housing. We've discovered filling the final drive to about 1/4" (someone said they did theirs to 3mm) is sufficient and stops the leakage.

[VoyKimmer]

180 cc or 6 oz hypoid gear oil no more. I use bel ray 80w 90 hypoid gear oil.

[ghostler]

I drained both plugs and changed the filter, with T6 in 15w-40. The shifts improved, and I have almost 15,000 miles on the bike now. The last long trip I was riding quite spirited on the way home and that trip was highway and about 200 miles. I've now noticed a ticking sound when I start the bike, and my oil level in the site glass is barely visible. [....] It does smooth out for the most part, but what about the ticking sound on startup?

The ticking sound could be a sticking hydraulic lifter. The lifter is the link between your engine intake and exhaust valves and the camshaft. Engine oil fills the chamber of the lifter to remove the slack in the valve train. (Fluid under pressure does not compress.) My 2001 does the same. With the new oil and continuous riding it may go away. I'd just carefully monitor it, may be nothing.

Some have added a cleaning agent such as Seafoam fuel additive to the engine oil to remove any oil varnish deposits, however, I have not done this myself and so cannot advise.

Oil level, the gauge is not that accurate. Unless your bike shows signs of oil consumption, like a smoky exhaust accelerating or decelerating, or is seeping oil (puddle on the ground), I wouldn't worry about it. However, at least on mine, the oil sight gauge seems to work if I am on a level surface and use the center stand. But others have expressed that their bike even with the correct amount of oil added, oil gauge does not read properly. Info on this is in the Tech Tips.

[mrbmoran2]

I don't know the difference in smell from engine oil to gear oil. I was planning on changing it soon. I'm not sure when the last time it was changed, I'll be sure not to over fill it. I did think with it being at the back bottom of the engine and around the stand that it could and left bag it could be drive shaft related.

I've read that about the seafoam I may try that on the next oil change to see if it helps the sticking lifter.