Replacing fuel lines

[ghostler]

Last summer, just prior to me getting an arthritic knee (long story, got it after taking antibiotics for a month for a cellulitis infection of the foot - stuff destroys more than simply bacteria ), I developed a fuel leak. It is in the line from fuel pump to carb fuel rail, was leaking at the fuel rail. Otherwise, bike runs smoothly. I'm just now getting around to replacing it, since my knee has improved (after a shot directly in the knee joint with cortisone and 3 shots a week a part with Euflexxa).

This has been a challenge, the lower airbox is non-removable without loosening and possibly removing the carb assembly. It's got a rib on the top side that interferes with the fuel tank flange. This makes getting at the fuel line clamp at carb hard to get to. Looking now for my bent nose needle nose pliers.
Just venting, otherwise getting my bike in order for the season. At least I'm glad I don't have to mess with fairing removal.

[Bulrid8]

Air box comes out without moving carbs. Just takes finesse. The fairing is the easiest thing to take off the bike.

[ghostler]

I've taken the fairings apart numerous times since I got the bike. I just don't like doing it, because like everything in life, it is a little involved. My 2001, the tank welded flange is large enough and lower air box strengthening rib is tall enough that its going to take more than simple finesse.

I've finally pulled the line off the carb end with an offset set of needle noses I just got off Harbor Freight. Doesn't appear to be any cracks in it, I suspect the leak may be in the plastic tee assembly between carbs 2 and 3. I hope not, but will know more once I get the new lines in place and attempt a test run before buttoning it up (or do further tear down.)

[Nails]

1. Just wait until it's time to put that pup back on. That Tee is happy to rotate right off the line. As you say, this has to be done by braille. I found no work-around besides making myself as comfortable as possible, meditating on the value of patience, putting some Vaseline on the Tee, and just going for it. Eventually, I lined the Tee up just right, and pushed the fuel line up just right, that it went back together. Once it went back first try. Every other time (about four or five), I was reduced to foul language &etc. As a matter of self-preservation (I suppose), I didn't remember this when writing my thread about the most annoying things about XII -- it's part of the joy of removing the carbs. May God help you.

I did not install a slightly longer fuel line, perhaps to attach it before slipping the carb assembly between the boots. But that's what I'll do next time, God forbid there is a next time.

2. Those Tees definitely do rot. After failing a visual inspection, I replaced this very one, plus a couple others elsewhere on the carb assembly. I found two with large holes, but fortunately only in overflow drain lines. The plastic apparently dissolved. (This whole area had been getting a steady diet of oil from a leaky valve cover gasket.)

3. I think you'll have to pull the whole carb assembly. I forget how the Tee seals to the fuel rail, but I bet you'll have to inspect it. Dental mirrors only get you so far. The Tees are an interference fit, which complicates reassembling the carbs together.

[Mr Jensee]

I dont remember messing particularly with the tee. However while refurbishing the other 2001 I found the only way to access most of the stuff was to remove the entire air box assembly. And like Nails I used every profanity I knew of and did my share of meditating which included punching the garage walls. Patience is something you are going to need an ample supply of.

[forplay]

I hate to tell you this but your problem is most likely the O-rings on the the T and also the tubing between 1&2 and 3&4. The cards must be removed from the motor and then you can break the carbs apart and you will find brass tubes linking the carbs together. There are O-rings on each side of the tubes. Also, If you order a new T, Vacuum test it prior to install. If it looses vacuum pressure it is junk. TRUST ME!!!!!!! I purchased a brand new T, Installed it in the bike and it still leaked fuel. Per Carl Leo he told me the T was bad. I didn't want to believe it because it was brand new. Did the vacuum check and low and behold the freaking thing was bad. Checked the old one, it was fine. Put the old one back in. Checked for fuel leak prior to reinstalling carbs back in bike. Leak gone. By the way, Do not use braided fuel line. Use OEM type fuel line. Got about a foot of it at a Honda dealer. That is also per Carl
That job will make you want to slap grandma. Doing it twice? Well I will say you wouldn't of wanted to be in Ohio that day. They probably heard my F bombs in Canada.
Have Fun

[morgan21]

Last summer, just prior to me getting an arthritic knee (long story, got it after taking antibiotics for a month for a cellulitis infection of the foot - stuff destroys more than simply bacteria ), I developed a fuel leak. It is in the line from fuel pump to carb fuel rail, was leaking at the fuel rail. Otherwise, bike runs smoothly. I'm just now getting around to replacing it, since my knee has improved (after a shot directly in the knee joint with cortisone and 3 shots a week a part with Euflexxa).

This has been a challenge, the lower airbox is non-removable without loosening and possibly removing the carb assembly. It's got a rib on the top side that interferes with the fuel tank flange. This makes getting at the fuel line clamp at carb hard to get to. Looking now for my bent nose needle nose pliers.
Just venting, otherwise getting my bike in order for the season. At least I'm glad I don't have to mess with fairing removal.

I'm glad to hear your knee is improving with the treatments. For the fuel line replacement on your 2007 110V Star Classic, bent nose needle nose pliers should indeed help with those tricky clamps.

If you haven't already, you might also consider using a flexible shaft screwdriver or a ratcheting wrench for better maneuverability in tight spaces. Additionally, if the airbox is giving you too much trouble, you could try loosening it just enough to gain a bit more access without fully removing it. Sometimes even a little bit of extra space can make a big difference.

If you run into any more specific issues or need further advice on the repair, feel free to ask. Good luck getting your bike ready for the season!

[Nails]

Hey George, who's your new friend?

[ghostler]

Hey George, who's your new friend?

I still have my 2001 XII. Since I hit 70 this year, may downsize, maybe a 650 Versus with factory hard bags and trunk, but that may be a few years away. Meanwhile, I'm making do with this 23 year old bike.

It's just too bad that the Powers To Be to be haven't brought back the classic UJM (Universal Japanese Motorcycle) like my Voyager. It is lighter than the current twin offerings or the boxer Goldwing, easier to tool around in and nothing beats the 96 horsepower at the rear wheel with this in-line 4. (Why do the PTB put such puny capacity gas tanks on nearly all the mid-sizes these days, no matter the make?)

When younger, I rode around in a 1987 Suzuki LS650 Savage. Would show up at a motorcycle rally 8 hours drive away. Folk would ask me how I could ride such a tiny bike. I'd tell them that a 650 was a large bike back in the 1960's, 1970's. It was odd to be called, "a real biker".

I'd take it on short stretches at 75 mph of I-40, like the 14 miles from Santa Rosa NM west to continue the highway to Las Vegas, NM. Then the portion at 75 mph from there to Santa Fe, NM. Also, the portion from Amarillo, TX to Groom, TX on I-40 at 75 mph.

I was running at 5200 RPM (6500 is red line) on those 75 MPH stretches (universal Drag Specialties double fire electronic tach for Harley twins worked perfectly), but it handled it well considering I was working with 33 BHP. Most of rural NM, TX, CO, AZ are two lane roads, so the Savage was at home there. Put a 14 inch universal mini-windshield to keep the wind off my chest, which worked like a charm. An electronic bicycle speedometer with odometer helped me to know my actual speed. (Motorcycle speedometers are notoriously inaccurate.)

My 2001 Voyager XII, I mount my auto GPS in a water resistant case. It's speed readout helps me to know my actual speed, plus know how much the speedo is off so I can use "Kentucky Windage" to maintain the right speed when not using the GPS.

[Nails]

I'm also looking to downsize, like maybe an NC750 -- but I haven't even sat on one yet. I had time to kill in Albuquerque a few weeks ago and checked out some of the dealers. None had anything I was very interested in. The Versys is pretty tall. Maybe a Wee-strom, but the new 800 is too tall. Some of the mid-range Beemers look good (one had a super-low seat that I could easily flat-foot), but I really don't want another Beemer.

A friendly dealer in California made me sit on a Rebel 1100T https://ridermagazine.com/2024/04/05/20 ... den-rated/. I was impressed: 520 lbs, 87hp, very low seat. But a teeny tank and footpegs a bit too forward. (And yes, I'd go for the DCT if available. I could be quite satisfied riding an "appliance" -- got dirt bikes for when I want to break my neck.)

I have a GL500, but it isn't yet road-worthy. There's a chance I could live with it on a long ride; but a greater chance that I'll give it to my daughter. It'll probably vibrate too much given that it needs to spin to make 50hp. And the reach to the bars is longer than I like.

A used Multistrada came up recently, and I rode it about 10 miles. I was surprised that the ergos were actually good, but it vibrated like an old Harley. I really wanted to like it (the price was right) but just couldn't. (Also had funny low-speed steering dynamics that kept me running wide -- something I could probably get used to.)

Dunno.

My only running bike right now is a 350 d/s. When I can get it into the shop, I'll attempt a major suspension transplant and luggage mods to make a dirt touring bike (BDR, TAT, &etc). I don't need to schlep all the crap on the bike like I used to. Still got some big projects ahead of it, though.