Hello everyone! As of today, we have 90 registered! That's going to be a great turn out!
Just a reminder that rally registration closes on May 9 so that we can place our t-shirt order for the rally.
If you are coming, but have not sent in your registration, do it TODAY or TOMORROW!
After that, we will not accept any orders for t-shirts. We order a few extra of the most common sizes for the rally. You can only get what is available.
Have you all made your hotel reservations? If not, do it NOW! If our blocked rooms are full at Laquinta Inn, you'll have to find other lodging.
See you all soon!
Does anyone have a GOOD 36001-1334 chrome left side airbox cover.
I partially cracked mine taking it off to change my clutch fluid
I was able to repair the crack,but the chrome has a lite crack in it,and is usable but does show the crack.
Nails,I have had good success using Fiberglass Resin Jelly plus Hardener.
I glued one of the posts on several years ago,and fastener tab on my fairing lower last year.
I also have an apparently successful repair like that on another bike, with plastic that seems like this stuff. A gorilla repair: big, strong, and ugly.
On my XII, I did a repair involving a steel splint in a hole drilled in the post and cover. The glue I used failed, but the splint approach basically worked. (Now when I remove the cover, the post and splint stay behind in the frame grommet thing.)
I've successfully made repairs to the lower fairing with ABS Plastic Glue -- yes, the pipe glue plummer's use. I successfully repaired two Vetter fairings with ABS Plastic Glue: a QuickSilver, and a Vindicator, both 25+ years old at the time. Craig Vetter, on his web site, suggests, and sells, a Hotcha Glue Kit...
Save your money, and buy some plummer's ABS Plastic Glue, from the hardware store. As near as I can tell, most Tupperware on most bikes, was made of ABS Plastic, up to the 90's. ABS Plastic Glue is ABS plastic suspended in a solvent solution: the solvent evaporates, leaving behind the ABS Plastic. If you leave it alone, in liquid form, to harden, it will dry with a glossy finish. One time I covered a hole I needed to fill, with painter's blue masking tape, then I painted the Glue on. After it dried, I removed the tape, and found it had a matte finish, due to the tape not being smooth textured. The glue will form a weld with the existing plastic. My repairs stood up to thousands of miles of riding on the Vetter fairings.
I repaired numerous cracks in a no-name trunk I had on my 1979 Honda. I painted the cracks, on the inside, with ABS Glue. It worked, without new cracks, for many years. I did the same with my Voyager's trunk: it developed cracks, from age, and miles. I painted ABS Glue over them, taping the outside with masking tape, to hold it tightly in place. The OEM plastic is matte black, and the ABS Glue dried to a semi-matte black. You have to look to see the repairs. I've touched up some cracks in the saddlebags of the Voyager, as well. Works perfectly.
My Voyager did not fare so well with the repairs to the lower fairing pieces, as the stresses were not alleviated, so the welds broke in the same places -- the welds snapped through, they did not break away from the OEM plastic. I gave up, as relieving the stress on the Tupperware just wasn't worth the effort. I use Zip-Ties to hold it together: they are tight enough to hold it together, but loose enough to avoid further fractures. When I need to remove them, I cut them with wire cutters; when done, I install new Zip-Ties. I've ridden 15,000+ miles like this, replacing the Zip-Ties multiple times, without issue, without further cracks/splits/damage. Cheers!
Yeah, ABS glue works great ... on ABS. The chrome-foil side covers aren't ABS. Wish I knew what they are. Don't think they're HPPE -- which doesn't work with really any glue, anyway..
Good to know. Usually my go-to for stuff like that is the 2-part JB Weld stuff, but it takes a while to set-up. Does seem to stick/hold though to most any surface or material and can be sanded once it hardens.
I know what you guys mean. I've had to repair a couple of the chrome posts. I turned to JB weld but it didn't hold to the sides of the plastic posts. What I ended up doing was to drill some small holes in the cross sections above and below the break. This allowed the JBweld to transfer through the posts bridging the joints on both sides of the break. So far so good. I also make sure I put a thin coat of grease on the posts whenever I reinstall them.
Kirk Rasmussen
Machesney Park, Illinois
"Failure is unimportant. It takes courage to make a fool of yourself."-Charles Chaplin
I would recommend only using White Lithium Grease on plastic components. Other grease types may damage the plastic bits. I've used it on the plastic bits, before, with great success. Cheers!