I'm leaving tomorrow for a short trip to SoCal; but my cruise control still won't work. I have a problem with the CC "cancel" circuit -- it's closed when it should be open. At first, I thought it was the throttle switch, apparently mostly just because I want to disable that anyway. But testing a little more carefully and objectively, it's really the clutch switch. So I unplugged the switch, and the CC problem went away (the Cancel test went open). But now the bike won't start.
The WizzBang App, which is basically just a schematic for me because Dave still won't tell me how to make it go, doesn't show a "clutch switch". That isn't in the manual either. So like any reasonable kindergartner, I just looked at the pictures. And there it is, but called the "starter lockout switch". Except it's also a CC cancel switch -- it has 3 wires.
Now, the brakes have a similar problem, needing to both turn on the brake lights (normally open) and turn off the CC (normally closed). But for them, MaKa sensibly used two separate 2-wire switches. That I can understand. However, for the clutch, we get a compound 3-wire switch that for some reason just couldn't be called the "clutch switch".
So, which part is for CC cancel, and which for the starter? Well, the WizzBang App goes right into a diode, which is another unnecessary complexity to get around using a gated switch in the CC: it basically allows charging a subcircuit with an instantaneous jolt of power, which charges a relay to activate the CC, which also loops current (the opposite direction -- small wonder LEDs don't work in the CC indicators) to keep that relay charged after you take your finger off the Set button, thus keeping the CC on until you interrupt that loop with one of the cancel switches. When MaKa could've instead activated a gated relay (to activate the CC) that would stay closed until you hit one of those cancel switches, which would've then opened (and stayed open) until you Set/Resumed the CC again.
And so the clutch switch has one part that cancels the CC (normally open) and another part that supplies 12V to that unnecessarily weird CC subcircuit.
After sorta wrapping my head around all of that, and taking my medication (comes in an aluminum can) -- mind you, I went through all of this just a couple years ago -- I take the offending switch apart. It works just fine, which it should because I replaced the damn thing just a couple years ago.
So today, I have to find out whether the clutch lever really operates it right (probably), and then look for some other reason why one wire (I still can't figure out which one) is shorting and cancelling the CC.
So I can use the friggin' CC ... tomorrow.
