Performance parts for zg1200

[Ccuban0315]

I have had my voyager xii now for 5 months or so , it was a basket case when I got it . I got it put together and running and it ran nice . Next morning the starter just spun the motor didn't. So I am now in the process of pulling the motor . I figured that since I'd have the motor out and split into two I might as well increase the torque and horse power now .
. I can't find to much on this subject actually I found nothing has anyone here in this forum have any knowledge like that on these
I'd love to Puck your brain o t hear what you have done . Thank you

[SgtSlag]

Horsepower? Yes: strip off the Tupperware -- it catches a lot of wind resistance, slowing the bike down, severely.

Reliability? Yes, a few minor things you can do.

• LED Bulb Replacements -- especially the Headlight (saves 20W-30W by itself):
  
  Replace all filament bulbs with appropriate LED's -- make sure the LED's have equal, or preferably greater, Lumen outputs for the bulbs they are replacing; the filament bulbs have a MTBF of 5,000 - 7,000 hours; the LED's MTBF is 20,000 - 50,000 hours; free's up many Amps either for running accessories, or for better Battery charging.

• NGK Iridium Spark Plugs:
  
  Replace the spark plugs with these as they require dramatically less energy to fire, which means they will almost never fail to fire -- aids ignition when the coils weaken with age; they last 100k miles in a car, before they need to be replaced; downside is the cost being $10/plug, but new coils will cost $200+!

• Full Synthetic Engine Oil:
  
  Only use the correct viscosity and JASO approved rating; it will typically last twice as long as conventional oils.

• Full Synthetic Fork Oils:
  
  Same benefits as full synthetic engine oils.

• DOT 5 Brake Fluid:
  
  It does NOT absorb water, allowing it to last much longer in use; but once you change to DOT 5, you're stuck with it; again, use the best Synthetic version for the longest life.

Safety improvements you can make to your bike and helmet:

• LED Running Lights on the Engine Guard Bars:
  
  Improves visibility, creating a triangle of lights, which allow onlookers to accurately gauge your speed as you approach them -- derived from a governmental train engine lights study; I suggest flood lights, around 10 Watts each, for maximum visibility. If you go beyond 10W per light, you consume more Amps from the Charging System, and that means less power to charge/run your bike's electrical accessories -- the Charging System does not have much power to spare for accessories, to begin with, and the LED conversion will free up some. Be careful of how much load you put on the Charging System...

• Headlight LED-specific Modulator:
  
  Federal law makes it legal in all 50 States -- it's legal in Canada too; works marvelously for getting cage drivers' attention as you approach them, eliminating most pull-out's in front of you.

• Sub-Fuse Block:
  
  Plenty of space beneath the faux gas tank for it. It will allow you to connect accessories such as: relays for the Voltmeter; a relay for the Horns + the Horns, themselves; a 12 Volt Accessory Outlet; and more.

• Car or Air Horn Replacement:
  
  Get rid of the anemic OEM horn, using something like either an air horn, or a set of Car Horns, but they need to run through a relay (connected directly to the OEM horn button) with the horns themselves being powered by a direct Battery connection to feed them sufficient amperage to sound at full volume.

• 12 Volt Accessory Outlet:
  
  Can be mounted atop the faux gas tank, to the top of the Cruise Control switch box. Useful for phone chargers, GPS chargers, and more cigarette lighter plug devices you need to power/charge on the road. Make sure to wire it with a relay, such that it loses power when the key is off, otherwise your charging phone/GPS might drain your bike's Battery...

• Voltmeter:
  
  Wired directly to the Battery, with a relay to cut power to it when the bike's key is off, to avoid it draining the Battery when the bike is not being ridden; it will allow you to keep an eye on the charging system, so you can hopefully spot an issue before the Battery dies, leaving you stranded on the roadside.

• Brake Free Light (helmet mounted):
  
  Decelerometers light it up for you, automatically (it is terribly bright!); it is on the back of your helmet, where drivers behind you cannot miss it!

Cheers!

[Nails]

Don't forget the "racing" carburetor jets described in the service manual.
(I have a hunch that this is largely behind carb rebuilds that run better but with a hit to fuel mileage.)