voltmeter

[Nails]

I bought this voltmeter: https://www.clearwaterlights.com/produc ... age-sentry, about $64 with shipping (and showed up pronto). I got it because of rave reviews (especially regarding accuracy) and it only takes up a .25" hole on my dash. This is a hot item among the ADV crowd, and it includes an option to use with certain lithium batteries (for the very weight-conscious).

I decided to put it behind the unused BATT slot on my dash, basically replacing that old acid-level gage with a real voltmeter. It has ground and hot leads, a very small brain (less than 1.2", longest dimension) and an LED output light. It doesn't need to be switched-hot because it turns itself off after no elec activity in 5 min. So I can check the battery voltage a couple minutes after I turn off the bike, as well as before I first hit the starter button.

These photos show how I clipped the BATT socket from the harness, ripped out the light leads (I had removed the light bulb long ago), and mangled a new hole to jam in the voltmeter's LED. It fits pretty tight in this soft light socket.

It has a color/flash scheme: the LED will be green most of the time, flashing green when it's charging right, yellow if there's a problem, and red (or flashing red) for a serious problem. These are voltage levels, reportedly extremely accurate.

The BATT lens is red, so the green light should look like dark mud. I'll drill a couple small holes in the lens around "BATT" to show a little green. And then I'll ignore it. But when it goes yellow, it'll show through as a bright orange. I should notice that. And red would come through bright red -- all behind "BATT".

I think this is way kool.

Now to put the dash back together.

[Mr Jensee]

I had a unit similar to this mounted on my 79 Suzuki because I wanted to make sure the electrical system was charging. However for the Voyager I have a digital volt meter along with a cigarette lighter type plug and two USB plugs replacing the left flip up cover over the lower vent. Works fine for me. I hope you like yours.
BTW Mine was a Dynatek Voltage monitor.

[HMB Don]

This is what I've been looking for. This is great company, located in Sacramento. Went there with a NorCal member to have running lights installed. After they installed the new lights, the V1200 had an electrical noise. They worked trying to get rid of the problem, no luck, they removed the system and after 5 hours of labor wouldn't take any money.

[Nails]

I mostly like it because I just can't stand having things on the bike that don't do anything. Like the low fuel light -- I replaced that part of the tank sensor. Or this old BATT light -- now it actually says something about the battery instead of just being disconnected.
It does seem to be well made.

[Nails]

I hooked up a battery having only 11.4 V, and the gage flashed red like it's supposed to. This was plenty noticeable, but not super bright (under fairly bright conditions). Just saying to be sure to push the bulb all the way up through the rubber grommet thing.

In daylight, I can only see the green light through those four tiny, 1/16" holes I drilled around BATT. I have to move my head around to catch a glimpse of green. Through the red dash lens, I don't think I could even see flashing. But I plan to ignore green anyway. (I'd drill the holes again for those rare times I'll want to ensure it's working.)

Yellow is difficult to distinguish from red. But either way, it's quite noticeable, telling me that I need to deal with something associated with BATT.

So, it works swell -- only bothering me when something's wrong. It's bright enough to see a problem condition in the daylight. But dimmer than other indicators like Neutral, so I don't expect a distraction at night.

Recommended.

[Barry]

I got one of these several years ago:
https://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-volt-meter/
It tells you everything you need to know. So when you're uncomfortable, you have a visual confirmation as to why

[Nails]

I tried to get one of those, but no longer available. I'll get a separate thermometer, probably one that just sticks on some spare place on the dash -- and hopefully one that'll put up with some rain.

[Nails]

This thing flashes, slowly, basically all the time. During the day I can barely see it -- only through those teeny holes I drilled in the dash around "BATT". At night, it's a faint red flashing that I'll probably get used to. I still have to move my head around to see the green in those holes.

When I hooked up a known bad battery, the yellow and red lights were considerably brighter, in daylight. I'm sure they'll grab my attention at night. (This battery still started the bike fine, but wouldn't hold a higher charge.)

From the docs:

• Fast-flashing green is "overcharging" (14.6+ V)
  Slow-flashing green is "charging" (13.2-14.6)
  Solid green is "normal" (12.5-13.1)
  Solid yellow, "warning" (12.1-12.4)
  Solid red, "discharged" (11.6-12.0)
  Flashing red, "dead" (<11.5)

The literature claims accuracy to within 0.25%. I believe it.

I started this post thinking flashing green was less than solid green. Now, I don't know why I'm telling you this at all, but I already have it typed in.

On a good battery, I only saw solid green once after I started it for the first time in a while. Aux lights don't bother it. I don't think my new heated jacket will either, but it's too hot for me to leave it on for more than a minute, even on low. I have all LEDs, except those very few dash and cruise lights that don't like them. I apparently have lots of spare juice.

All is well. The constant flashing is only a little annoying.

[Barry]

Sounds like your electric jacket needs a heat-troller. They are available from several different sources. We used the in-line corded ones for years. I ended up installing one designed for snowmobiles in my fairing. I like it because it there's a visual indication of the variable pulsing voltage.

[Nails]

Built in, three settings. That was on low.

[Mr Jensee]

the Dynatek unit is a better unit in my opinion. for one it has 3 LEDs in a molded case with very bright Yellow Green Red LEDs. The case is small and can easily be mounted on top of the speedometer console, simple two wire set up wires directly to the battery. Draws no current when the bike is off. Was very simple to install on the old GS1000 I had. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view ... &eim=1,2,6

[Nails]

They seem awfully similar. Specs might be, too. Mine is a little more expensive, lives entirely under the fairing and out of the weather (no exposed wires), and makes use of the otherwise dead BATT indicator. I don't want bright dash lights unless there's problem that needs my attention. And I don't want unnecessary clutter.

I've come to agree with the reviewer I read, that not having a gage is actually better: it very simply tells me directly whether I have a potential problem. I have faith in the accuracy.

I'd definitely buy it again. But I'm sure I could be happy with the Dynatec unit, too. Here's to good choices.