Oil leak

[chefman84]

Wondering if someone can help me out. I developed an oil leak last season and I tracked it to where I believe it is called the oil return tube. I removed the bolt and the only thing there is a copper? ring. Just seems like there should be an 0-ring or something there on both sides of the tube where it bolts to the engine? Anybody have an answer for this? I took a couple pictures but can't seem to add them to this...

Thanks in advance....

[chefman84]

Think I was able to attach the pics....

[SgtSlag]

Did you download a PDF copy of the factory service manual (lists critical torque values -- see below) from this site yet? It can be printed, on demand, from Lulu.com, for a modest cost. I recommend high quality ink (waterproof toner, rather than inkjet -- water soluble, will run when wet), and high quality paper (thicker, heavier, more durable, and gives better definition of the text and images). You can even choose to get it printed in hardcover (>$$), or softcover (<$$); the higher quality ink and paper will increase the cost, but it may be worth your while.

The part you are showing, is known as a "copper crush ring." Sometimes these copper crush rings are used in place of rubber O-rings. Not sure why, or if they are even needed instead of rubber O-rings. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can chime in with a better answer.

One of the most useful techniques for finding replacement parts, is to look them up on sites such as BikeBandit.com. You will need to drill down by make, model, and year. Then, drill into the section of the bike you need parts for. Even if they show the part as no longer available, at least you can get a part number, and search from there. The exploded diagrams are truly useful, as well, because they often illustrate how the parts interconnect, as well as their relative locations.

Copper crush washers can be found in various sizes. Don't be discouraged if you find that your needed part is not available as OEM. As long as you get one in the correct ID dimensions, and thickness, it will work. Copper is very soft, very malleable, so as long as you choose one that fits the bolt, you will not have any leaks.

To be certain, make sure you apply the correct torque (use a torque wrench -- inexpensive from Harbor Freight, is better than 'guessing'...), clean the area thoroughly, so you can more easily detect any oil leaks (Brake Cleaner is a good choice, but make certain none gets into the crankcase).

Chime in with more questions, or for more clarity. Cheers!

[VoyKimmer]

Must use new crush washers anytime oil lines with banjo bolts are removed and as SgtSlag mentioned tightened to proper torque.

[chefman84]

Thanks for the help guys. One question I would have is should there be one of these crush washers on both sides of the return tube, or only between the tube and bolt head? I do use bike bandit for their schematics and it only shows the one, but it calls for a rubber o-ring which I did order, but it seems like it is quite big so I haven't even taken it out of the package.

[ekap1200]

Yes Sir , thats your problem. Gene Kap

[ekap1200]

one on each side of the tube