Changing Air Filter in the XII

[debron]

Got a "generic" air filter per the info in Dollar4Dollar and it says to use the white frame from the OEM filter. The OEM filter is pretty well glued into the frame. Do you just use brute force and power tools to rip it out so that you can insert the new filter? Checked with the dealer and the OEM filter is $35 (OK, it's only $34.95!)

[gearheadfla]

I changed to a K&N filter a couple years ago, I didn't use the frame, like you said, it don't want to come off. so what I did is drop the K&N in place and got some black RVT and ran a bead around the edges of the filter to seal it to the air box, it has held for two years now with no problems and is easy to trim out for filter cleaning about once a year or so.

[kjsett]

Got a "generic" air filter per the info in Dollar4Dollar and it says to use the white frame from the OEM filter. The OEM filter is pretty well glued into the frame. Do you just use brute force and power tools to rip it out so that you can insert the new filter? Checked with the dealer and the OEM filter is $35 (OK, it's only $34.95!)

I changed to a K&N filter a couple years ago, I didn't use the frame, like you said, it don't want to come off. so what I did is drop the K&N in place and got some black RVT and ran a bead around the edges of the filter to seal it to the air box, it has held for two years now with no problems and is easy to trim out for filter cleaning about once a year or so.

I changed to a Fram last year, then to a K&N in January. I don't remember it being a big deal, but not what I exactly did. I think I followed directions somewhere here in the forums.

With that, a big shout out to everyone and to those who have posted their wisdom and experience in the past to make it easier for those of us who joined later: THANKS.

[doug of so fla]

Got a "generic" air filter per the info in Dollar4Dollar and it says to use the white frame from the OEM filter. The OEM filter is pretty well glued into the frame. Do you just use brute force and power tools to rip it out so that you can insert the new filter? Checked with the dealer and the OEM filter is $35 (OK, it's only $34.95!)

Which "Generic did you get?? I had a problem using Napa (wix) STP, All the same, there are two many folds in the body of the filter, 56 i think, It did affect my mileage, I just did a Purolator, I think 36 folds mileage came back right away. Yes, you GENTLY!! RIp the media out of the frame. Not very difficult, The frame is glued together at the corners so you have to be careful , but you can glue it back together if it comes apart.. The foam seal around the stock filter goes bad so I would replace it while you are at it. A roll of 1/4" weatherstripping with glue on one side will do the job. Use a razor blade and cut along the long edge of the fold next to the frame and then if you put your fingers in the folds and squeeze folds together the ends of folds will pop away from the frame, just attached with very little silicone.

[debron]

Got a "Microgard" from O'Reilly's. They didn't have the Fram but the Microgard crossed with the same number - 3915. Leaving tomorrow for a week to visit friends in Port Townsend, Wa, so won't get a chance to tackle it until I come back. If I count right, it's got 50 folds.

[doug of so fla]

That looks like the design I started with, Fram, If when you trim it and install it and the install squeezes the folds together closer than they are now, it will restrict air flow and mileage will drop noticeably 5 to 10 mpg, You maybe can cut out a couple of folds and try it, or just get a Purolator, about $8.00. let us know what works out best..

[kjsett]

That looks like the design I started with, Fram, If when you trim it and install it and the install squeezes the folds together closer than they are now, it will restrict air flow and mileage will drop noticeably 5 to 10 mpg, You maybe can cut out a couple of folds and try it, or just get a Purolator, about $8.00. let us know what works out best..

Remembering more. Yes I had to trim, but I used the original plastic frame and removed the paper folds (determination and patience). Good scissors and cautious cutting worked for me.
Be sure to save the little plastic feet/t's, they help hold it in place.
Enjoy.

[gearheadfla]

The K&N filter for a mid 80's camaro with a V-6 dropped right in with no mods to the filter at all, I get 50mph and clean it about once a year. The part number is in the Dollar to Dollar section.

[dogzz]

Gearhead,
Do you have the part # for the filter you use? The dollar for dollar doesn't show the part #for a "drop in" . Only filters that have to be trimmed
Thanks
Vinny

[gearheadfla]

The K&N parts number is 33-2008 and will fit into the plastic frame, however I did not use the frame, I dropped it into place and sealed the edges with a bead of black RVT silcone just to make me feel better, been using it for going on 3 years now and had no problems at all, when it comes to cleaning time just cut the RVT with a razor blade being careful not to drop some down in the airbox, claen the filter and treat with K&N filter cleaner and put it back in.

[Bob in Tucson]

Reading this thread brings this question to mind. I switched to a K&N filter a few years ago and it seems to be working fine. However it seems the gas mileage has decreased noticeably the past several months, maybe from the time I last cleaned and oiled the filter. Is it possible to put too much oil on the filter after cleaning it? Would too much oil restrict the air flow? Inquiring minds want to know.
Bob

[debron]

Thanks for asking the question Bob. I bit the bullet and bought a K&N air filter for my XII (Just arrived, haven't installed it yet.) I notice it comes "pre-oiled" but there were no instructions on how to oil the filter at annual filter-cleans (except the expected recommendation to use K&N oil!) Inquiring minds want to know more!

[Mr Jensee]

After reading your original post I went looking for an aftermarket air filter. Around here I located an STP filter SA3915 and ripped the paper element out of the plastic frame. I wanted to just fit the filter over the existing hole and it fits nicely but I was afraid it would not stay in place by itself. I slowly pulled the two sides off the white frame and trimed all around the black rubber seal with an box cutter until I had trimmed about a quarter inch off all sides. Once I fit the filter into it I glued the sides back onto the frame. The frame's seal has eroded away so I cleaned that off and picked up some foam door seal at Home Depot. It has the peel off tape that allows it to stick on one side. I replaced the deteriorated seal with the foam tape. RTV'd the rubber seal of the new filter element into the white frame and put it back into the bike. The little fork braces will hold the filter from moving and the new filter should last a while. Thanks for reminding me. Filter cost $7, the door seal was an additional $8.

[debron]

Here I go, showing my ignorance again! What is this black RVT silicone stuff?

[gearheadfla]

Here I go, showing my ignorance again! What is this black RVT silicone stuff?

No dumb questions here. It is a silicone that comes in a tube, works like a very sticky toothpaste, for sealing in the automotive field. Used mostly for engine oil, example, used when replacing the oil pan to seal it from leaking, you can find it at any auto parts store or automotive dept at Wally World. I ran a bead of it along the edge of my K&N air filter the seal the edges so no "dirty air" would get past. This is what I like about this family, got a question? Throw it out there, someone will answer.

[Mr Jensee]

It comes in a rust red color and ebony black. The black just looks less messy.

[VoyKimmer]

I like the clear( Personal Preference). It seems to hold up better than the black. The red is more like a gasket material but it would work also. Use you favorite color.

[gearheadfla]

Black airbox, I used black R.V.T, It is also fuel friendly, I.E. the fumes produced won't change the fuel-air mixture, and if our bikes had o2 sensors or any other computer ran induction systems (I know, they don't) it won't set a code and turn the check engine light on, something for the guys with 1700's to think about when resealing something. Anyone that has a fuel injected and emission bike, just check the label for 02 sensor friendly. The clear will work also for the XII, the red is more of a gasket making type and don't stay as flexible as the black when cured. All will work but there is more differences than just the color.

[Lucasind]

Actually y'all got a couple of the letters flipped around it's RTV (room temperature vulcanizing)
just sayin.......

[SgtSlag]

I hate to knit-pick, but it is actually RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanising) Silicone. The only reason I post this, is because the switching on the letters might be what confuses folks.

Thanks for sharing the differences in the various colors of the RTV Silicone, as well as the O2 information. Very helpful. My air filter is some type of foam, and I cleaned, and re-oiled it with K&N Cleaning/Oiling Kit, shortly after I bought my bike. I'm wondering if the foam installed should be replaced with UNI foam. We average 43 MPG, and I'm wondering if replacing the foam would open its lungs, and increase the MPG?...

Too Much Oil:
When I replaced the foam filter on my 440LTD (OEM foam was falling apart), I sprayed the UNI foam replacement piece with the K&N Oil, then I squeezed the foam, to remove the excess oil -- I removed a lot of oil that way... Too much oil could, indeed, restrict air flow. The purpose of the oil is to act as a dust magnet, catching the particulates, and holding them suspended in the oil (it is very sticky oil -- it is not like motor oil; wear disposable gloves when working with it, to make clean-up a snap). UNI foam has many, many pathways for air to flow through the foam cells, with oil on the surfaces of every cell, to capture the particulates; K&N uses cotton fabric, soaked in oil, reinforced with metal 'chicken wire', to capture particulates. K&N also states that their filters only need to be cleaned every 50,000 miles, and that they should last for 1,000,000 miles!

Foam filters are used on dirt bikes, and they accumulate a lot of dirt in their filters! I am sold on oiled, foam air filters. Dirt bikes' engines, and their oil, are saved by these filters, under conditions our street bikes will never encounter. Also, my cousin rode his HD around sand dunes, in Wisconsin (heard of them, never seen them though), and he had a K&N air filter. He took the air filter out, after riding through the dunes, and it was full of sand! His engine was clean, no sand made it past the filter. His buddy told him that if he'd had a paper filter, his new bike, would be good for parts only, as the sand would have penetrated the engine... I love UNI Foam, and K&N, but UNI is much less expensive (requires custom fitting), and just as good, IMO. YMMV. Cheers!