Hello everyone! As of today, we have 90 registered! That's going to be a great turn out!
Just a reminder that rally registration closes on May 9 so that we can place our t-shirt order for the rally.
If you are coming, but have not sent in your registration, do it TODAY or TOMORROW!
After that, we will not accept any orders for t-shirts. We order a few extra of the most common sizes for the rally. You can only get what is available.
Have you all made your hotel reservations? If not, do it NOW! If our blocked rooms are full at Laquinta Inn, you'll have to find other lodging.
See you all soon!
.I was changing my fork oil and the little screw on bottom of fork is striped so I removed the hex head bolt up in the bottom fork. I think I screwed up. It won’t go back in and I hear something moving inside of it. What to do next.
Was this the bolt you removed? If so, it goes into the Fork Cylinder and probably isn't screwing in properly because the cylinder is rotating freely as you tighten. You need the special tool pictured in the diagram - a combination of the Front Fork Cylinder Holder handle and the triangular adapter, which holds the cylinder down and prevents it from spinning as you tighten. Please note the fork cylinder bolt is supposed to have threadlocker on it (and so is the fork oil drain plug, which could be why yours stripped).
Or you could get it started and zip it up with an air-gun. Once it pulls home the innards won't slip. But it seems like your going to have to get the bleed screw threads repaired first. Pull the tubes out of the tree , put the spring cap back on and compress the spring , now the bolt will start, your cap being off just lets the damper push up.
Let us know how ya make out
Gene K.
PS Don't forget the external snap ring under the air manifold on the fork tubes...
"Its not bad if you don't know something, but when you don't know you don't know; That's when your in trouble". Joe Place 1912-2008 (my grandfather)